9th March 2024 – Winter & Brecks, Day 2

Day 2 of a 3-day Winter & Brecks tour today. It was a lovely, bright and dry day with plenty of sunshine. The forecast cold E wind didn’t really pick up until later in the morning and even then was nowhere near as blustery as predicted. We spent the day along the North Norfolk coast.

With the wind lighter than forecast, we decided to head first down to the cliffs at Weybourne. As we walked along the clifftop path, several Skylarks fluttered up singing from the grass and one landed on the top of a small clump of bright green alexanders. There were a few gulls out on the sea – a Great Black-backed Gull, a few Herring Gulls and a young Common Gull – and a winter adult Common Gull flew past close in below the cliffs.

Walking up to the edge of the cultivated field next along, we suddenly realised there were several Snow Buntings hunkered down right in front of us, just a few metres in from the edge of the grass. They started feeding, picking around on the bare ground, great views. Then a Meadow Pipit flew over and they took off, whirling round before landing further back.

Snow Bunting – feeding in the field

We continued to scan to see if we could find the Lapland Buntings which have been here for the last few weeks. We could see more birds further over, including more Skylarks, but we were looking into the sun from here, so we decided to walk on up the path. One of the locals who had walked on ahead of us waved us over now. He had found a couple of the Lapland Buntings but they were right over the far side of the field and tricky to see, disappearing in and out of the shallow furrows, so we got our scopes on the right area and concentrated on getting everyone onto them.

There were several Rooks and Carrion Crows along the back edge of the field too, which at times provided useful markers for the buntings! A few Curlew were feeding in the back of the block of fresh green barley nearby and a pair of Grey Partridge were feeding in front of the bank over the far side, very well camouflaged in with the clods of grey clay earth. We couldn’t find the large flock of Linnets here today, but there were still some little groups of them feeding in the field and we managed to locate a very distant Twite briefly too at one point. There were more Skylarks and Snow Buntings feeding here as well, which made it even harder to pick out the Lapland Buntings. A couple of adult Gannets flew east low over the sea behind us.

It was nice here in the sunshine this morning, but it took some time for everyone to get views of the Lapland Buntings that they were happy with. Many of the birds were now starting to work their way closer across the field so we stayed and continued to scan, eventually locating a Lapland Bunting a bit closer. Unfortunately it flew up with a couple of Skylarks before everyone could get a look at it and landed over a ridge in the middle of the field.

Lapland Bunting – came a bit closer

We decided to start walking back along the path, in the direction it had flown. As we got over the ridge, the local we had spoken to earlier now waved us over again, as he had located another Lapland Bunting out in the field. This one was quite a bit closer and easier to see and now, finally, everybody got a good look at it, before it flew again and disappeared.

We walked back along the clifftop. The flock of Curlews flew over and seemed to be heading out to sea, before turning back overhead and dropping back down into the fields. Scanning the sea, we picked up a small flock of Brent Geese flying east close in over the water, presumably starting off on their long journey back to Siberia for the breeding season. They were joined briefly by a drake Common Scoter, which quickly changed its mind and peeled away, flying back west.

Curlew – flew over

Back at the minibus, we drove back west to Cley. We stopped at the Visitor Centre to use the facilities and had a quick scan from the terrace. There were lots of Avocets out on Pat’s Pool, along with Black-tailed Godwits, a flock of Dunlin and a couple of Ruff. Two Lesser Black-backed Gulls were in with the Black-headed Gulls. A Marsh Harrier swept in and out low over the reeds, landing a couple of times but mostly out of view. We could see some Brent Geese distantly out on North Scrape, but couldn’t see anything in with them. Some more Brents flew in from the direction of Blakeney and dropped down with them, but there was nothing different with them either.

The young Red-breasted Goose which has spent the winter ranging widely along the coast had reappeared at Cley a few days ago and then spent a couple of days feeding with the Brent Geese on Blakeney Freshes. It hadn’t been seen yesterday, but we wondered whether anyone had ventured out to look in the blustery wind, so we decided to try our luck there. As we drove down along Back Lane, a Brimstone butterfly flew over the road in the sunshine, our first of the year. Down by the quay, a male Marsh Harrier flew round out over the grass right next to where we had parked, having a tussle at one point with a Kestrel which had been hovering nearby. Lots of Wigeon were feeding out on grass, whistling.

Marsh Harrier – a male

We saw a small flock of Brent Geese flying over and they dropped down with a larger feeding flock out in the middle of the Freshes. We decided to have a quick look from the top of Friary Hills, just in case the Red-breasted Goose might be in with them. A Greenfinch was wheezing away in the hedge and a Common Buzzard drifted over the trees. Up at the top, there is a great view out across the grazing marshes to Blakeney Point beyond. We could see the flock of Brent Geese clearly now and there was nothing with them. We could also see more Brents over towards the bank by the harbour, and although most of the flock were hidden behind some reeds, a Pale-bellied Brent stood out even at that distance amongst the regular Dark-bellied Brents we could see.

Our initial plan was to walk out on the harbour wall so we walked back down and past the duck pond, which is largely empty now after an outbreak of bird fly last year. Out on the bank, the wind had picked up noticeably now and it was decidedly chilly here. We walked out until we could see the Brent Geese here, but again nothing was with them either. There were a few Redshanks and Curlew in the muddy creeks and a Great White Egret flew over, dropping down out of view on the saltmarsh. It was very busy here now, too many people, everyone seemed to be out walking their dogs today! It meant as well as being cold it was very disturbed, which meant it was rather quiet for birds. We decided to try our luck elsewhere.

Curlew – in one of the creeks

We drove on west and had just pulled up to scan the floods east of Stiffkey when we got a message to say that the Red-breasted Goose was back at Cley with the Brent Geese there (which would be why we couldn’t find it at Blakeney!). We did a quick u-turn and headed back. As we got to Beach Road and got out, all the Brent Geese flew up but thankfully landed again just one field back. We could just see the Red-breasted Goose from the side of the road but from up on the to of the West Bank we had good views of it feeding with the Brents. A very smart goose! A scarce visitor here, which should be wintering in Romania, and one of the highlights of the last few months here.

Red-breasted Goose – taken previously at Cley

When all the geese flew up, one of the group who was looking the other way asked what was the large bird flying over. We turned round and looked up to see a Common Crane in the sky! It flew straight through without stopping and continued off east, later being tracked all the way along the coast as far as Trimingham at least. A great bonus and a proper wild bird here, the Cranes which spend the winter in The Broads often start to wander further afield on sunny days in early spring.

We drove round to the Visitor Centre for lunch. It was a bit breezy in the picnic area, particularly as all the bushes which give it some shelter have been cut right back down, but thankfully it was not too bad in the sunshine. Afterwards, we headed back west along the coast to Holkham. As we got out of the minibus on Lady Anne’s Drive, there were lots of Wigeon, Teal and Shoveler on the grazing marshes in front, along with a couple of scaly-backed Ruff.

The Shorelarks had been feeding west of the Gap this morning but on our way out through the pines we met someone coming back who told us they were not there now. So we decided to try down in the cordon instead, along the path to the east. There were several Meadow Pipits feeding on the saltmarsh as we walked past and we were almost there when we met someone else walking the other way who told us they had just seen four Shorelarks back in the cordon. Good news!

As we arrived at the fence, we saw a Shorelark scurrying towards the deeper vegetation out in the middle, so we turned towards the dunes and scanned from the fence there, but couldn’t see it now. Then we realised there were five more Shorelarks further over, closer to main path. After a quick look from here through the scopes, just in case they flew, we walked round to the other side where they were feeding. We stopped and got the scope on four of them, then noticed another Shorelark was right in front of us, just a few metres away. We had great views now, their yellow faces glowing in the low sunshine. Then the rest of the Shorelarks flew out from the thicker vegetation in the middle of the cordon and joined the five, and now we watched all thirteen feeding together.

Shorelark – stunning views

We walked on to the dunes now and had a quick look at the sea. The Common Scoter flocks were very distant in the mist – we could see long lines of black dots bobbing on the water, too far out to make out anything else in with them today. A Great Crested Grebe in breeding plumage was on the water much closer in and when three ducks flew past, we could see they were a pair of Red-breasted Mergansers followed by a female Pintail.

After walking back to the minibus, we drove round to check the grazing marshes the other side. In one of the grassy fields by the road, we could see several Barnacle Geese in with the Greylags but no White-fronted Geese here now, but at our next stop, we did manage to find some White-fronted Geese, feeding on the grass in the distance over in front of the remains of Joe Jordan hide. We could see the white surround to their bills and their black belly bars. Most of the Pink-footed Geese which spent the winter here have departed Norfolk already and headed north, but we did manage to find three very distant Pinkfeet now, over on Burnham Overy Grazing Marshes.

A distant white spot in the trees was a Spoonbill, doing what Spoonbills like to do best and sleeping – we could see its bushy nuchal crest but not its bill. Several more were even better hidden in the sallows but after a while one or two flew round and eventually one perched awake in the open so we could see its spoon.

There were several black-hooded Mediterranean Gulls on the large pool along with a small group of feeding Pintail. A couple of distant Great White Egrets were out on the smaller pools on the grazing marsh, one with a Grey Heron alongside for size comparison. Several Common Buzzards drifted overhead from the trees behind and two Red Kites circled over. Then it was time to head back for tea and cake again, but we still had one more day to look forward to tomorrow.

6th Jan 2024 – Winter 3-day Tour, Day 2

Day 2 of a 3-day Winter & Owls Tour. The weather was much kinder to us today – there were even some nice spells of winter sunshine! The winds were much lighter and there were only one or two very light and brief showers. We spent the day down in the Norfolk Broads.

As we came in from Horning, through Ludham village this morning, we decided to have a quick look for some swans first. We drove along the road on the south side of Ludham Airfield, but there was no sign of any here today. A Mistle Thrush flew over. We cut back through the village and down to St Benet’s Abbey, where we found several Mute Swans and then a small group of wild swans asleep on the flooded grassland behind the trees. The verges were very soft after all the rain, so we turned round and parked in a gateway which had a more solid base. Several Greenfinches were perched on a bush out on the grass in front as we got out of the minibus.

We walked back up the road and set up the scope on the swans. They were showing no real sign of stirring – occasionally one would lift its head and the only ones we could see here were Whooper Swans, the commoner of the two species here, so we would have to try elsewhere to find some Bewick’s Swans. We heard distant Cranes bugling briefly, but then they went quiet.

Whooper Swans – sleeping

Our next destination was Filby Broad, and at least one Ferruginous Duck had already been reported here this morning. There were several cars in the car park, but only two other birders on the boardwalk. We set up our scopes and quickly located a drake Ferruginous Duck towards the NW corner. Then we realised the female was here too, asleep nearby. We watched the male diving, noting its white eye and distinctive head shape, although the light meant it was hard to make out much in terms of colour. Then a boat with a couple of fishermen in it motored over towards all the wildfowl, the Coot started to move further back and the ducks followed, disappearing behind the reeds into the far corner out of view.

Goldeneye – several were on the Broad

There were still several Goldeneye with the Coot along the edge of the reeds along the north side, so we turned the scopes on those. There were several Gadwall over towards the back, and some small groups of Tufted Ducks and Common Pochard. A couple of Marsh Harriers drifted over. The sun had emerged from behind the clouds now and the light improved. When the Ferruginous Ducks reappeared we could now see their rusty colour, particularly the drake, even though both birds were diving continually.

Goldcrest – by the path

With the main target here achieved, we walked back to the car park and continued on up the path through the trees. A Kingfisher called out over the Broad beyond. A tit flock flitted ahead of us in the trees, including Long-tailed Tits and a Coal Tit singing. Then a Goldcrest appeared close to path, and we watched it feeding in the branches right next to us, just a few feet away. A Treecreeper appeared on a trunk ahead of us too, and we had nice views of that in the sunshine as well.

Treecreeper – in the trees

We walked up to the platform at the end overlooking Ormesby Little Broad. A Kingfisher shot past right in front and disappeared round behind the reeds. There was a lot of shooting now over the other side of the broad, spooking the Grey Heron and Cormorants from the trees opposite. Scanning through the ducks and Coot, we found a few Great Crested Grebes, including one already starting to come in to breeding plumage, and two winter ones which looked to be about to start displaying before they were disturbed by all the noise.

Back to the minibus, and drove on to look for Cranes next. Unusually there was no sign of any this morning in their usual fields. We could see shooting pegs, so possibly they had been shooting here this morning too? We tried some other areas nearby where they can often be found but there was no sign of any here either. There were plenty of Red-legged Partridges in the fields – lots were released last year, and they haven’t managed to shoot all of them yet. We decided to try for swans again instead, up at Hickling.

Driving along the road towards Stalham, we came out beyond a hedge and found lots of swans around a small flood in the muddy field right next to the road. They were too close to get out, and started bugling and lifted their heads as we pulled up in a layby opposite. So we drove on, turned round, and stopped in a layby further back now, behind the hedge. The swans had settled down, and started feeding, so we could watch them at leisure now.

We counted six Bewick’s Swans in with about thirty Whooper Swans. It is always great to see them side by side, the Bewick’s Swans clearly smaller, daintier, shorted-billed, with less yellow which is more squared off rather than the wedge on Whooper Swans. With the number of Bewick’s Swans coming to the UK in winter dropping precipitously, it always feels like we should take every available opportunity to appreciate them, while we still can. Two Mute Swans were in with them too.

Bewick’s Swans – with Whoopers in the foreground

We made our way down to Strumpshaw for lunch next, stopping briefly on the way to admire a big flock of Fieldfares feeding on a recently harvested sugar beet field next to the road. Lots of Blue Tits and Great Tits were coming in to the feeders by Reception, and were joined by a couple of Coal Tits. We didn’t have to wait long before a Marsh Tit shot in and out too, and we had some nice views as it made repeated visits over our lunch break. A Great Spotted Woodpecker stared calling beyond the trees, and we had brief views of one flying over beyond the level crossing, and then another over reception behind us. A Marsh Harrier quartered over the reeds and another drifted over the overflow car park, and a Kestrel perched in the tree right above the level crossing gates.

Marsh Tit – coming to the feeders

After lunch, we drove back north. On the way, we had a quick scan of the fields where the Cranes should be again from the main road, but there was still no sign of any. There was a very large flock of Rooks along here. We continued on round to St Benet’s Levels which would be our destination for the rest of the afternoon.

As we drove in, we saw a Short-eared Owl flying around just behind the farm buildings, a great start. We parked in the car park beyond, and could see two Short-eared Owls distantly back before the farm now. As we walked out of the car park and onto the access track, a third came in over the field beyond and right past us. It was lovely light now, with the sun out and low in the sky.

Short-eared Owl – flew right past

Out on the access road, we didn’t know which way to look, there were Short-eared Owls everywhere. we counted five up at once one side of the road, then three up together the other side, so at bare minimum of eight. We had fantastic views of them hunting over the grazing marshes in front of us. The owls dropped into the grass a few times, and one seemed to be feeding on a vole.

Short-eared Owl – occasionally dropped into the grass

From time to time, a couple of Short-eared Owls would chase each other up into the air, and at one point two had a disagreement right in front of us out over the grass. Where there is plenty of food, Short-eared Owls can establish winter territories, and defend them against others. Great to watch.

Short-eared Owls – chasing each other

We heard Cranes bugling now and turned to see a group of three dropping down in distance, lost to view behind the reeds. A little later, we heard more bugling and managed to find what may have been same family out on the Levels, through a gap in the reeds. Distant views, but a good start. Then another sixteen Cranes flew up calling and headed off over Thurne village, followed shortly after by another two. There seemed to be Cranes everywhere too now.

A close male Marsh Harrier was hunting over the grass in front of us too. We could see it was wing tagged, and investigations later revealed it had been ringed in the Broads in June 2020. Several Chinese Water Deer were out on the grass now too.

Eventually it clouded over a little and we managed to tear ourselves away from the spectacular display of the Short-eared Owls. As we walked up to the old Abbey, a Barn Owl was hunting more distantly the other side of the river, unusually the only one we saw here this evening. We scanned the grazing meadows and found the family of three Cranes we had seen earlier, a bit closer from here. Eventually they came up out of the reeds onto the bank, where we could see the darker headed juvenile, born last summer, between the two adults. It was great to hear them calling – it is wonderful sound, bugling Cranes back in the Broads. A Sparrowhawk perched on nearby tower.

Common Cranes – a family group

Maybe one of the Short-eared Owls we had seen earlier or possibly another was now hunting the marshes beyond the Abbey, and worked its way up the slope towards us. It dropped sharply into the grass and had clearly caught something. A Kestrel had been perched on the hedge just beyond, and after a couple of minutes it flew in low and straight at the Short-eared Owl. The Owl took off with the vole still in its talons, and the Kestrel swooped up at it, grabbed its feet, and the two of them tumbled down locked together into grass. The Short-eared Owl came up with nothing – the Kestrel had successfully stolen its vole.

Another Short-eared Owl appeared perched in the hedge, preening, and we had great views of that now through the scope, before it eventually dozed off, presumably having fed well already. A flock of Linnets landed on the hedge too, and more bizarrely a Common Gull right on the top on a thin branch.

The sun was going down now, and there was a lovely sunset just beyond the old Abbey gate as we walked back down to the car park. It was time to head back – it had been a fantastic way to end a very productive day in the Broads here.

As we arrived back in Hindolveston, and got out of the minibus back at the B&B, a couple of Tawny Owls were hooting in the trees.

10th June 2023 – Early Summer, Day 2 & Nightjar Evening

Day 1 of a 3-day Summer Tour. What a difference a day makes! Today was bright and sunny, and much warmer, up to 20C already by 9am and a maximum of 22C in the afternoon, despite a freshening east wind. We spent the day down in the Broads and then went out again in the evening to look for Nightjars.

Our destination for the morning was Hickling. As we arrived in the car park, a Willow Warbler was singing. One of the wardens was just setting up for a children’s moth morning in the car park and kindly gave us a couple of his surplus moths to look at – the Reed Leopard was much rarer, found only in the UK in the Norfolk Broads and a couple of other restricted sites, but the Poplar Hawkmoth proved more popular!

Reed Leopard moth

We went to try and check in at the Visitor Centre as the door was open, but we were told they were actually still closed and the door was promptly shut. We thought we would go out for a walk first and check in later. Then we were just walking past when someone came running out chasing us for permits, despite the fact that the Centre was not actually due to open until 10am. It was then very slow to process everyone through and we should probably have gone out and focused on birding first.

We eventually got away, and walked down towards the Stubb Mill track. A Swallowtail butterly flew over the path ahead of us but disappeared straight over the hedge the other side. Still, a good omen to see one on the wing already.

At the first pool, we could see a Spoonbill feeding at the back, but it quickly disappeared into the vegetation. We could hear Common Cranes bugling, but couldn’t see well from here due to the bushes lining the track, although we eventually managed to see one flying round and dropping into the reeds through a gap.

Great White Egrets – four with a Little Egret

There were four Great White Egrets together on the back of the next compartment. We had a better view of them when we got to the first platform and could look over the bank, feeding together with a couple of Little Egrets and a Grey Heron for size comparison. There were a few waders on here too – a single Greenshank with some Redshank, a Common Snipe, lots of Black-tailed Godwits, a couple of Avocets and a few Lapwings, but there was no sign of the Black-winged Stilt which had been here earlier. There was a nice selection of ducks to – another Wigeon, a couple of Teal, plus several Shoveler and lots of Gadwall.

As we continued on along the track, there were several dragonflies flying now in the sunshine – Four-spotted Chasers and our first Norfolk Hawkers of the year (in Norfolk at least!). Damselflies included nice views of Variable Damselfly.

Variable Damselfly

When we got down to the corner, we discovered that the Black-winged Stilt had just flown off. We had only missed it by a few minutes, so we would probably have seen it if it hadn’t taken so long in the Visitor Centre! There were several Tundra Ringed Plover on the scrape still and we had nice views of a Little Ringed Plover in the scope. We could see several Spoonbills in the trees beyond. A Hobby circled high over the middle of the reeds, catching insects on the wing, but drifted off away from us. Two more Cranes flew in from beyond the dead trees, but dropped down out of view.

There was no sign of the Stilt returning, so we set off back along the track. We hadn’t gone far before two more Cranes circled up over the reeds. They were trying to find a thermal so we had much better views now, as they gained height, before eventually heading off to the north, over the track ahead of us and away over the wood beyond.

Common Cranes – circled up

Back at the junction, we turned left and walked out along the Whiteslea Track. A Garden Warbler was singing from the back of the overflow car park as we passed. We had a look back at the first compartment of Brendan’s Marsh from the viewing mound, but we couldn’t see anything we hadn’t seen earlier. We were hoping for more Swallowtails now but it was a bit breezy here, and then a couple of people said the Swallowtails showing very well along the path past the Lodge, so we carried on down towards the Broad.

We stopped briefly by Bittern Hide where we heard a Bittern booming. We were surprised we hadn’t seen any feeding flights, as we normally do at this time of year, though possibly the breeding season is behind schedule this year due to the cold spring weather.

Along the path towards the Observatory tower, we found a couple of people watching a Swallowtail. It was resting on a thistle at first, with its wings up, but then flew round and landed on a grass stem right beside the path. There are not many flowers out after the recent cold weather, no nectar sources, so it was interesting to watch this one feeding on grasses.

Swallowtail – nectaring on grass

We had a quick look from the Observatory, so we could see the Broad. Two Common Terns flew round and landed on one of the posts marking the channel. There were lots of Mute Swans on the water beyond, along with Coots and a couple of Great Crested Grebes, typical of the deep water broads. Further on, a Grasshopper Warbler reeled briefly. We stopped to listen, but unfortunately it had gone quiet.

Further round, once we got into the lee of the trees, we found several more Swallowtails, another 3-4. One was wanting to come down to feed on a Flag Iris by the path, but was possibly put off by all the admiring people and landed on a reed stem a little further out.

A couple of Great Spotted Woodpeckers called from the wood and we watched them flying through the trees and landing briefly. As we turned back along the path towards the Visitor Centre, we could hear a Bearded Tit calling, but it went quiet. At the mention of lunch, the walking pace accelerated notably and only the laggards heard more Bearded Tits, and had a couple of brief flight views. At the pond dipping platform, a Willow Warbler was singing in a willow above our heads.

It was time for lunch, so we set in the picnic area – it was so warm and sunny, we even sat in the shade. How different to yesterday! The Garden Warbler was still singing in the trees beyond and another Hobby zipped over just above us. The ice cream at the Visitor Centre proved particularly popular today, with the rhubarb & ginger a personal favourite although various flavours were tried by the group! We were just finishing lunch when another Swallowtail flew in around the bushes in the picnic area.

We had walked a good way already today, and probably couldn’t manage a lot more in the heat, so we headed down to Potter Heigham Marshes to see what we could find on the pools. It was a good day for Swallowtails – as we found another one nectaring on vetch by the track as we arrived and then had several more fly over. They had clearly emerged in numbers in the warmth.

Four-spotted Chaser

Up onto the bank, we had a slow walk along, scanning the pools. There were lots of ducks, including more Wigeon and several Common Pochard, but no sign of any Garganey this afternoon. We noticed a Cuckoo in the trees and got it in the scope. When it took off, it flew across the path in front of us and out into the reedbed, where it landed in a small alder tree. A flock of Avocets flew past, there were a couple of Cetti’s Warblers calling and several Reed Warblers in the reeds.

We walked down along the edge of Candledyke, but once we got out of the shelter of the trees, it was very windy. We were hoping we might find Bearded Tits here, but there was no sign of any now and they were probably hiding in the bottom of the reeds. As we were heading out again this evening, we had to be back in good time today, so with a long drive back to base we decided to call it a day.

Nightjar Evening

We headed out again after dinner, driving up to the coast, past the barn where the Little Owls were last year but which is now almost completed development into a house. Sad. There was no sign of any Barn Owl activity along the coast road, but a Spoonbill flew out of the trees at Cley and dropped down towards Snipe’s Marsh, where it appeared to flush a second Spoonbill up from the pool, and they both flew off. There was no sign of any Barn Owls the other side of Cley either. A Kestrel was still out, and landed in a dead tree.

We decided to try our luck inland, and hadn’t got far when we spotted a Barn Owl disappearing behind some trees. From further up, we could see it again, flying back behind us over the field. We turned round, and tried to follow it, turning down a side road which would take us down to where it was heading, but by the time we got there it had disappeared.

It was already time to be heading up to the heath, so we drove on. We parked in the trees and walked out onto the open heath. We could hear Stonechats calling and spotted a couple perched on the gorse in the gloom, a male with a couple of streaky juveniles. We had not been here long before the first Nightjar started churring – they were early tonight. It was rather distant, right out in the middle, but we stopped to listen.

Another Nightjar churred briefly much closer, so we walked over just in time to hear it call and see the male flying round, flashing the white in wings and tail. One landed on a branch, and although it was hard to see against the dark trees we managed to get it in the scope. Thankfully it stayed for a minute or so, so we could all get a look at it.

Nightjar – perched on a branch

When it took off again, there were now at least three Nigthjars flying round, a couple of males and one female without the white flashes. The original male was still churring out in the middle on and off, and another male started churring further along. It was nice now to just stand and listen. A Tawny Owl hooted in the distance, and we could hear Roe Deer barking too.

Nightjar – a male with white wing flashes

As we stood and listened, we had several more flight views of Nightjars overhead and hunting for moths around the trees. Then as it started to get dark, it was time to head back. We bumped into one of the locals, a regular on the heath, who monitors the Nightjars, and he related the story of a recent egg theft of one of the nests. Shocking that such practices still occur.

On the drive back to base, another Tawny Owl flew over the road and landed on the wires as we passed. Then it was time for bed for a few hours – we were going to be out again tomorrow.

17th-23rd May 2023 – A week of Spring Days

No group tours for the last week, but a series of single-day Private Tours. No time to write up each one individually, so here are some highlights from the last week. The weather has been dry, bright and mostly sunny, but with a cold north wind at times which has made it chilly on the coast on some days, but warm out of it and when it drops.

Waders are continuing to come through, on their way north to breed, at the moment. The rarest of them was a Broad-billed Sandpiper which spent a couple of hours on a pool from the seawall at Burnham Deepdale on Thursday. We were just heading out when news came through and decided to head straight over. It was always a bit distant – too far for photos – but we were lucky as it was flushed by a Marsh Harrier and flew off just after we left. A Bittern flew past while we were there too!

There have been good numbers of Temminck’s Stints along the coast this week, with multiple birds at several locations. This one was at Titchwell yesterday.

Temminck’s Stint – at Titchwell

There have been small numbers of Wood Sandpipers stopping off here too this week. A few Ruff continue to linger and any males are now starting to get their outlandish colourful breeding headgear. Grey Plovers and Sanderling are always among the latest species to head up to their arctic breeding grounds and some of them are looking particularly smart in breeding plumage now.

Wood Sandpiper – stopping off

Our breeding season is now well underway, with lots of juvenile Avocets and Lapwings hatching now and the Little Ringed Plovers are very active, displaying.

Little Ringed Plover – lots around now

Among our other scarcer summer visitors, the Turtle Doves continue to perform – we have spent several mornings out listening to them purring and watching them in the hawthorn blossom and display flighting overhead. There are still one or two Garganey around too, which have been showing most days, although one of the drakes at least is already starting to moult out of its smart breeding plumage. For some species, the breeding season is largely over already!

Turtle Dove – showing well

One of the other highlights at Titchwell this last week has been the Little Gulls, which have been showing very well hunting over the freshmarsh, often close in front of Island Hide. Up to four, and all 1st summers at the moment, they have been showing off the black ‘w’ pattern across their upperwings. The Mediterranean Gulls are looking very smart now in breeding too.

Little Gull – 1st summer

There have been some surprises too. On Friday, we had just left Titchwell at the end of the day and were driving back inland when we glimpsed a very slim-looking harrier which appeared briefly over the hedge. Cue an emergency stop! We found somewhere to pull off the road and managed to climb up to look over the hedge just in time to see a young (2nd calendar year) Montagu’s Harrier working its way away over the fields to the west. On our way back on another day, a Goshawk flew over the road in front of us.

Montagu’s Harrier – a 2cy male

Not a tour, but a trip out east to see family on Saturday was conveniently combined with a visit to see the Caspian Tern at Hickling. Also a 1st summer, on some days it has been showing very well on Brendan’s Marsh, between feeding out over the surrounding broads.

Caspian Tern – 1st summer

The Common Cranes were also showing well here, with several birds flying over. Another Temminck’s Stint was on Brendan’s Marsh too and a Hobby flew in over the reeds.

Common Crane – circled over

But the big surprise at Hickling was hearing a liquid ‘quilp’ call behind and turning to see 12 Bee-eaters flying towards us at eye level! They swept straight past and disappeared off towards Horsey Mere. The previous day, they had been in Yorkshire, heading south along the coast and roosting overnight at Gibraltar Point in Lincolnshire. They had been watched heading off south at about 9.15am, but money would have been on them following the coast or heading due south through the Fens. What chance them overflying the middle of the Broads where people happened to be gathered watching the Caspian Tern?! Will they settle down to breed somewhere again?

Hopefully the excitement will continue for the coming weeks. Nightjars are now in, and we are starting to spend our evenings out watching and listening to them out on the heaths. With the warmer weather, insects are starting to emerge and the first Swallowtails have been seen down in the Broads in the last couple of days. We still have spaces on our Summer 3-day Tour on 9th-11th June, so if you like the sound of Nightjars, Stone Curlews, Cranes and Bitterns, Swallowtails and more, you would be very welcome to join us. There may even be some more surprises to come too.

25th Feb-2nd Mar 2023 – Spanish Pyrenees & Steppes

An International Tour, arranged in conjunction with our friends at Oriole Birding. We spent six days exploring the Pyrenees in Catalonia and Aragon, down into the neighbouring foothills and out onto the steppes. It was a very exciting and successful trip – if you like what you read, we will be doing it again next year and you would be very welcome to join us.

SATURDAY 25TH FEBRUARY

Our flight from Gatwick arrived on time in to Barcelona at 9.55am and we met our local guide Carles at the Enterprise rental car desk. Thankfully we had no repeat of last year’s problems and we were soon underway in our minibus.

We made a short stop first not far from the airport to look for Iberian Green Woodpecker. We hadn’t even stopped when Carles spotted two in some dead trees, so we parked a little further on and got out to get them in the scopes, both male and female. Another Iberian Green Woodpecker flew across and landed on a nearby wall, where it looked distinctly out of place. A Lesser Spotted Woodpecker called from the trees the other side of the track and eventually showed itself well. There were lots of Black Redstarts, White Wagtails and several Stonechats in the fields, a Sardinian Warbler gave its rattling call from somewhere further over and a Crested Lark called too. A couple of mixed finch flocks in some distant bare trees were mainly European Serins. Small groups of both Ring-necked and Monk Parakeets flew past calling.

Iberian Green Woodpecker – a great start

Moving on, we headed up into the Pyrenees, with a quick coffee stop at a filling station on the way where we ate our sandwiches and a couple of the group tried some of the local pastries. Our destination was Coll de Pal, and as we drove out of Barcelona we were pleased to see a good covering of snow on the higher peaks. It was mid afternoon before we got there and as we drove slowly up towards the top, we scanned the sides of the road and any bare patches of vegetation which were not hidden by snow. Stopping to scan a likely looking slope, we noticed an Alpine Accentor feeding quietly just above the verge and when it flew higher up, a Snowfinch flew across too. We quickly pulled over and got out, training the scopes on the Snowfinch first.

We realised now that there were actually several Snowfinches, at least five, feeding on the grassy patches on the slope. We had some great views of them. Particularly at this time of year, it is very easy to miss them as with a warming climate they have often moved back higher by now and with temperatures in the 20Cs earlier in the week they had apparently not been here. Fortunately for us, there had been a significant fresh fall of snow in the last couple of days which had pushed them back down again. The Alpine Accentor slightly played second fiddle, but we did then turn the scopes onto that for a closer look. As they all moved higher up the slope away from us, we decided to try our luck on the other side of the pass.

The snow was even thicker the other side and did not look particularly suitable. We had a quick scan but couldn’t see any signs of life so decided to go back to see if the Snowfinches had moved back down towards the road. Sure enough, they had – two were on the bank above verge initially, but moved quickly back up away from us again. Having had great views of them, we decided to move on. A little further along we found another Snowfinch right beside the road, but as we pulled up for a photo shoot some snow moving machinery came up the road the other way and spooked it. Typical timing!

Snowfinch – feeding by the road

We drove over to Masella next. We were hoping to look for Citril Finch here, but as we got up towards the ski resort it quickly became clear there was lots of thick lying snow here too. Not great for finches! We pulled over and had a short walk – at first it seemed rather quiet, just a Crested Tit called from the pines. But first we heard some tapping and then Carles noticed a Black Woodpecker’s head peeking out of its hole in a distant tree. We walked further up and trained the scopes on it. Eventually it flew out and up into the pines further back, calling. It was decidedly cold here and starting to snow very lightly, so we headed back to the minibus and drove back down.

Black Woodpecker – looking out

We were initially planning to call it a night, but on our way to the accommodation we saw several small finch flocks come out of the fields and a flock of Fieldfares fly over the road. We decided to check a scrubby hillside behind the next village. As we pulled up amongst the houses, a Rock Bunting appeared in a small bare tree in the parking area and then a second, a smart male Rock Bunting perched up in the top of a nearby fir. We walked a short way along the track which led up the hillside beyond. A Woodlark was perched on the wires and at least six Rock Sparrows were too, over towards the edge of the village.

Rock Bunting – a pair by the parking area

The light was starting to go now, so we walked back down to the minibus and made our way over to Olopte, where we would spend the night. After a break to check in and freshen up, we headed out to a local restaurant for a delicious meal of typical Catalan food. It had been a very long day, so most of the group headed for bed now, but for those who could stay up a little longer the resident Beech Marten eventually put in an appearance at the feeding station outside.

SUNDAY 26TH FEBRUARY

After breakfast, we packed up the minibus again. A Black Woodpecker was calling from the trees nearby and flew past overhead, and we could hear Iberian Green Woodpecker too. A flock of Siskins landed briefly in the trees. Thankfully there hadn’t been the forecast huge snowfall overnight but there was a dusting of snow covering the fields as we headed higher to check an area where there had been Citril Finches in the last few days. There were lots of finches here, but they were mostly Chaffinches, plus a decent flock of Greenfinches and another small group of Siskins briefly. There were a couple of Mistle Thrushes perched on the bushes, plus a large flock of Fieldfares and two Redwings with them. A smart male Rock Bunting perched on the edge of the trees in front of us.

Looking over the mountain tops, a large bird was flying towards us, a Lammergeier, our first of the trip. A smart adult, it stopped to circle above us, giving us some lovely views when we could even see its beard, before drifting off in front of the snow-capped peaks to our left. A short while later, what we thought was the same Lammergeier came back and circled overhead once more, but checking photos later it appeared to be a different individual and this one was carrying a bone in its talons. A Kestrel perched in the top of a small bare tree just below the road as we walked a short distance, and two Iberian Green Woodpeckers called and flew off down the valley. We drove a little higher but the snow was even thicker here and there were few birds, just a Stonechat.

Lammergeier – with bone

We decided to try lower down, where there was no snow. A quick check of the hillside below Olopte produced a singing Woodlark but no finches, so we went back to have another look at the hillside we had tried briefly last night. As we got out of the minibus, there were several Tree Sparrows with the House Sparrows in the trees in the village. At least nine Rock Buntings were feeding on the short mown grass of a tiny municipal park between the houses, along with several Black Redstarts too. A Robin flew up onto the belltower of the church beyond.

As we walked up the hillside, several Woodlarks were singing in the sunshine and a Skylark called as it flew over. A pair of Iberian Grey Shrike perched on top of the bushes on the edge of the field below us, where a small mixed flock of buntings were feeding. There were several Cirl Buntings and Rock Buntings and a single rather drab female Yellowhammer, but there were few finches feeding in the fields here. A Lammergeier appeared over the top of the hill a couple of times and two Griffon Vultures drifted over high in the distance. As we walked back, a Crested Tit called and showed briefly in the top of a small pine tree.

A stop to use the facilities at a nearby filing station produced Coal Tits and Blue Tits and we heard a Short-toed Treecreeper calling. Then we headed back up to the hillside above Olopte for another quick look there. The overnight snow had melted rapidly in the sunshine, but all the finches and thrushes had disappeared now and there was still no sign of the hoped for Citril Finches – they had possibly moved down lower again due to the recent wintry weather. We did have a different Lammergeier here now, this time an immature, and a pair of Golden Eagles high over the hill tops.

We had a long drive this afternoon, down out of the Pyrenees and across to Aragon. As we came down through the mountains, we could see lots of cloud gathered in the pass below, so we stopped for lunch at a picnic stop in the last of the sunshine. A small flock of Long-tailed Tits were feeding in the trees between the road and the river below and a Chiffchaff and Blackcap were with them. A Grey Wagtail called from the river below, along with a couple of Wrens. As we came out onto the plains below, thankfully the sun was out although the wind had picked up.

We broke the journey again near Lleida, where a Long-legged Buzzard has been spending the winter. As we pulled up, an impressive number of Common Buzzards and Red Kites were hanging in the air over the low ridge in front of us. A Goshawk shot past low over the fields and a Marsh Harrier hung in the air over some reeds further down. A pair of Serins were perched in a nearby bush as we got out, Linnets and a few Corn Buntings were in the fields and Crested Larks were calling all around us. We didn’t have to wait very long before the Long-legged Buzzard appeared. It circled up with three Common Buzzards, giving us a good chance to compare them, the Long-legged Buzzard noticeably bigger, longer-winged and paler. They drifted gradually closer, before the Long-legged Buzzard and one of the others broke off into a long glide and disappeared over the low hillside off to our right.

Long-legged Buzzard – with Common Buzzard above

As we didn’t want to be too late getting there, we headed straight over to our final stop of the afternoon now at Santa Ana. En route, we saw another Goshawk by the road and beyond Balaguer we started to see our first Spotless Starlings. We parked at the start of the gorge and walked slowly up towards the dam, scanning the rock faces. It was rather quiet here at first, apart from several Crag Martins around the cliffs. An Iberian Green Woodpecker shot past along the cliff above us and then two large raptors drifted high overhead. We were hoping to see Bonelli’s Eagle here but as we looked up we realised that while one was indeed a Bonelli’s Eagle it was following a Golden Eagle, the two of them circling and tousling briefly in the sky above us. A squadron of three Griffon Vultures came high over the tops the other side of the gorge.

Golden Eagle & Bonelli’s Eagle – tousling

Continuing on over the bridge, Carles spotted a Wallcreeper on the large rock outcrop opposite. We quickly got it in the scopes and watched it scaling the face, flicking its wings and flashing the deep red as it did so. After a short while it took off and we realised it was flying over the gorge to our side. It landed high on the crag above us, in the sunshine now, where we had an even better view as it continued its ascent, before eventually disappearing round behind the top of the rocks. A stunning bird and a much wanted lifer for many of the group.

We walked on through the next two tunnels towards the dam, scanning the cliffs, but could not relocate the Wallcreeper the other side. There were several House Martins with the Crag Martins here now. A Chiffchaff was flycatching from the bushes and a Firecrest showed really well just beyond the last tunnel. A couple of Cetti’s Warblers shouted from down by the river in the bottom of the gorge.

Firecrest – in the bushes

The light was starting to go now, so we walked back to the minibus. As we got back towards where we had parked, a Griffon Vulture dropped off the cliff above and flew off away from us. A couple of seconds later, it came back and as it did so we noticed another Wallcreeper fly off the rocks high above the minibus. It disappeared round the corner away from us, so we walked a little further down to see if we could relocate it but there was no further sign. Three Rock Sparrows flew in high over the gorge.

It was another hour’s drive from here to our base for the next few nights at Arbanies. Another Goshawk flew over the road ahead of us, our third of the afternoon. There were more White Storks now in the fields and lots of their nests on nearby towers. A large group of Cattle Egrets was just going to roost in some trees. It was dark by the time we arrived. After settling in, we just had time for a beer and to run through the day’s list before delicious home cooked dinner of creamy vegetable soup and slow-cooked chicken served in a huge cast iron cooking pot.

MONDAY 27TH FEBRUARY

It was a lovely bright, sunny start to the day, if a bit cold. As we were loading up the minibus after breakfast, there were several Spotless Starlings on the roofs in the village which looked very smart in the sunshine.

Spotless Starling – on the roof in the village

There was a noticeable cold wind blowing by the time we got to Mallos de Riglos. A couple of Fieldfares flew off calling from the bushes as we walked up through the houses. We were hoping for closer views of Wallcreeper this morning, so we walked up to the base of the cliffs and scanned the rock face. Carles had a brief glimpse of one, deep in a crevice, but it disappeared immediately before anyone else could get the right angle to see where it had been. A male Blue Rock Thrush perched nicely in the sunshine, about half way up, then flew round the face. Griffon Vultures cruised back and forth round the rock towers overhead.

It took a while before the Wallcreeper reappeared, some way up the rocks and a little further round from where it had been. We watched it feeding for some time above us, climbing nimbly around the sheer face and occasionally flying a short distance on its broad, rounded butterfly-like wings, showing off the white spots in its primaries from below. It gradually worked its way lower down, so at one point it wasn’t too far up, certainly closer views than yesterday, before it climbed back up again. It felt like that might be the best of it, but then it flew round past us, and seemed to be dropping. We scrambled round over the steep gravelly paths through the bushes and as we rounded the corner, there it was about eye level on the face in front of us. It gradually worked its way back up a little higher and continued round the cliffs. At one point, the male Blue Rock Thrush flew down and swooped at it a couple of times. We were just starting to try to descend down over the loose rocks when the Wallcreeper flew down again behind us and landed just a few metres away, right at the base of the cliffs. Unbelievable now, right in front of us. Wow!

Wallcreeper – stunning views

Wallcreeper – checking the crevices

Wallcreeper – finding food, here a fly

Wallcreeper – flicking its wings

Wallcreeper – amazing colour

Wallcreeper – fantastic wing pattern

Wallcreeper – wow!

Eventually the Wallcreeper moved up again and further round the face where it was harder for us to follow. We simply couldn’t hope for better views anyway, so we made our way carefully back down. There were several birds feeding in a sheltered vegetation plot in between the houses in the village so we stopped to look. A Dunnock was hopping around between the onions and a female Blackcap was feeding in the ivy at the back. There were Robin and Song Thrush too, and a couple of Serins dropped in. Then it was time for a well-earned coffee break at a nearby café.

It was already time for lunch when we got to the base of the hill below Montearagon, but we were distracted initially by a Dartford Warbler in the short scrub in front of us and a distant pair of Black Wheatears higher up on the rocks towards the castle. We then watched them while we ate. Afterwards, we drove up towards the top, stopping on the road for better views of the Black Wheatears below us now. A Thekla’s Lark was feeding in the vegetation above the road a little further on, so we walked up a narrow path which cut across the next hairpin and then had great views of it feeding on the side of the tarmac and then singing from the stone plinth by the entrance barrier to the castle. A Blue Rock Thrush flew across behind us and landed briefly on the crash barrier and a couple of Crag Martins flew round overhead. We stopped here to admire the view, looking over towards the Pyrenean foothills.

Thekla’s Lark – up by the castle

We had time for an extra stop at a nearby small wetland now. As we got out of the minibus there was a cutting chill to the fresh wind. Lots of hirundines were hawking low over the water, mainly Crag Martins but a couple of House Martins and Barn Swallows and a single Sand Martin were feeding in with them and we eventually found a lone Red-rumped Swallow too. There were Chiffchaffs everywhere, in the reeds, along the concrete dam and in the trees around, and quite a few Robins too. Several White Wagtails and Water Pipits were feeding around the reeds and on the short grass along the near shore in front of us. There was a nice selection of ducks to bolster the trip list: Shoveler, Teal, a couple of Wigeon and a drake Gadwall, plus several Little Grebes, Coot and Moorhen. We thought we might find some sandpipers around the water’s edge, but scanning carefully the best we could do was a single Common Snipe right over the far side.

Our final destination for the afternoon was the Embalse de Sotoñera. As we drove out from the village, two Little Owls were staring at us angrily from a pile of rocks. Further down, there were three Common Cranes in a nearby field, a small foretaste of what was to come, and a male Merlin shot past.

Little Owl – angry!

As we got out of the minibus, two shepherd’s dogs came running over from the nearby flock of sheep to investigate, but seemed friendly. A Goshawk flew low and fast across the grass in front of us and a young Golden Eagle circled in the distance, mobbed by a couple of Yellow-legged Gulls. One or two Great Crested Grebes were just visible far out on the water. There were lots more Cranes here, several hundred at least, though mostly out of view in the field behind the bushes which fringed the lake. A couple of times, a large group flew up bugling loudly and dropped down again further back.

Common Cranes – smaller groups by the lake

We walked a short way round the edge of the reservoir, where there were lots of Crested Larks and Corn Buntings feeding on the short grass and a surprise early Northern Wheatear was with them. There were a couple of pipits with the White Wagtails on the water’s edge, a Meadow Pipit, a conventional Water Pipit and a strikingly darker, dirtier bird which would pass for a littoralis Rock Pipit back at home but which presumably was just an extreme dark Water Pipit here, before it flew off. A Brambling flew over and dropped down into the bushes behind us.

Back in the minibus, we drove a short way round to another arm of the reservoir. As we got out, we could already hear lots of Cranes bugling but we weren’t entirely prepared for the scene when we walked up to the viewpoint on the small hill in front. Down below on the grassy fields around the edge of the reservoir were at least 25,000 Cranes! An amazing spectacle, we stood and admired them for a while, and listened to the sound of them calling.

Common Cranes – just some of the 25,000+

The sun was starting to drop now and it was getting increasingly cold in the nagging breeze, so a fitting end to another brilliant day, we headed back to base.

TUESDAY 28TH FEBRUARY

We were heading up to the high Pyrenees this morning, up to the ski resort at Astun. It was another chilly but bright and sunny start out on the plains. As well as the regular roadside birds on the way, as we got past Jaca we passed a field full of Redwings and Fieldfares and a little further on, a distant large flock of Red-billed Choughs. It got progressively colder as we climbed higher, even without the windchill from the very blustery wind which was funnelling down off the mountains, and as we got past Canfranc we drove into thick cloud and it was snowing lightly.

As we arrived at Astun, the temperature gauge on the minibus was reading -9.5C but thankfully it seemed to be sheltered from the wind here. A couple of Alpine Choughs were huddled on a window ledge on one of the buildings and two or three more were sheltering on the balconies on the other side. We decided to go into a nearby café for a coffee or hot chocolate, and while most of the group were sensibly in the warm, a quick search was conducted around the buildings but there was no sign of any Alpine Accentors here today. After the coffee break, the weather had improved a little, the snow had stopped and it had brightened up a little, so we had walk around. The Alpine Choughs were a little more active now, flying round over the skiers and perching on the buildings and posts around the car park.

Alpine Chough – around the car park

With the lower approaches here being so windy, we decided to try over on the French side of the mountains. As we dropped down on the other side of the pass, we could see the differences here, the slopes more forested with beech and firs. We took a small side road and almost immediately our first Lammergeier of the morning was spotted over the ridge alongside. There were lots of birds feeding in the fields lower down here, where there was no snow. We flushed several Jays and a Hawfinch as we passed and there were lots of Mistle Thrushes, Song Thrushes and Robins. Three Alpine Accentors were feeding along the side of the road and as we got out for a closer look, another Lammergeier drifted past along the hillside.

Alpine Accentor – feeding by the road

As we got higher, there was a thicker covering of snow again and fewer birds and over the coll at the top, we started to descend again through thicker forest, where we stopped and had a walk along the road. We were hoping for woodpeckers, but the branches of the trees were still covered in snow and they were silent. We found a couple of tit flocks, groups of Long-tailed Tits, with Nuthatches, several Marsh Tits and Coal Tits, a Eurasian Treecreeper. Our third Lammergeier of the morning flew over the trees. It was time for lunch, so we drove back up to the top of the coll where the sun was now shining. A couple of Griffon Vultures drifted high over the ridge beyond.

We dropped back down the other side and had a drive round the fields in the villages lower down. Again, there were lots of thrushes and Robins, plus a few small flocks of Chaffinches and three Rock Buntings. We stopped on the bridge over the river back by the main road, where a Grey Wagtail was feeding around the rocks below and then a (White-throated) Dipper appeared from the water. We disembarked and followed it downstream, but it disappeared into a culvert under the road, presumably where it was nesting. We then realised there were two Dippers here, a pair, but they were very flighty and kept disappearing off either up or downstream. Back on the main road, we stopped again in a village and walked down to the river, flushing a Grey Heron from right next to where we had parked. There were two more Dippers on this stretch, but they too kept disappearing off along the river ahead of us. A Short-toed Treecreeper was in the trees here too.

(White-throated) Dipper – one of several

It was a long drive back from here, so we set off back through the tunnel into Spain and then down the other side. It was sunny here too now, but there was still a bitter wind blowing off the tops and down the pass on this side – we had been luckier with the weather in France today. Back at our base, after a break to freshen up and then do the bird log for the day, we had another delicious home-cooked local supper of soup with pasta followed by meatballs.

WEDNESDAY 1ST MARCH

Despite having to pack, we made an earlier start this morning and left our base at Arbanies to head down to the steppes south of Zaragoza. It was another cold start, the minibus reading -5C shortly after we set off, and very windy again as we got out of the lee of the Pyrenees. The journey itself was fairly uneventful and after a little over an hour we found ourselves at an area of scrubby steppe just outside Belchite. This is a very good area for Dupont’s Lark, but it was very quiet early this morning – in fact, next to no larks were active as we drove along the tracks, although we did eventually manage to dig out a couple of Thekla’s Larks and a Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (formerly known as Lesser Short-toed). We turned to make our way back to the road, and a Black Kite drifted over, our first of the trip.

We drove into Belchite and stopped at the filling station to use the facilities, then made our way down to the reserve at El Planeron. The air had warmed up a bit now and it was immediately more promising – Calandra Lark and Mediterranean Short-toed Lark were now singing and listening carefully, we picked up the slightly discordant notes of a Dupont’s Lark singing in the distance too.

We were just scanning for that, when another Dupont’s Lark appeared close to the track on the other side of the minibus. It disappeared into the grass, where we could see it creeping through the vegetation and then realised there were actually two Dupont’s Larks there. We drove on a short way to turn the minibus round, so those on the other side could get a better view. The pair of Dupont’s Larks had now worked their way further back. The male perched on the top of a small bush briefly, then the two of them appeared in a small clearing. They were sufficiently far away now that we could get out carefully and get the scope on one of them.

Dupont’s Larks – a pair

The Dupont’s Larks eventually disappeared back into deeper cover. A Calandra Lark was perched in full view singing further out on the steppe and then two flew round in front of us, showing off their black underwings with broad white trailing edge. After such unexpectedly quick success with the Dupont’s Lark, given the somewhat unfavourable weather conditions, we decided to move on and try for something else.

We drove over to Bujaraloz, getting better views of Red-billed Chough en route, and headed out into the fields to look for Great Bustard. It was already after midday now and there was no sign of the bustards where they had been favouring recently. Driving down one of the side tracks, we flushed a couple of Black-bellied Sandgrouse from a weedy field – they landed again briefly a bit further back, before flying again and dropping down out of view. There was a large flock of Calandra Larks in the same field.

A little further on, at another traditionally good field for sandgrouse, we flushed another two Black-bellied Sandgrouse as we drove up. We stopped here for lunch, by a small pool which had largely dried out, where a Green Sandpiper was feeding in the mud in the bottom. It seemed slightly incongruous to see a Fieldfare fly out of here too, while a small flock of Greenfinches and a larger one of Linnets came in to drink.

After lunch, we drove back to the main road and over to a different area to try there. A huge weedy field held lots of Lapwings and small flocks of Spotless Starlings. We had just said how it looked a good place for sandgrouse when we came across a small group of Black-bellied Sandgrouse by the track. They quickly took off, eight of them, and then we noticed four Pin-tailed Sandgrouse still on the ground straight out from us. We had a good view of them from the minibus before they slowly crept back into the vegetation.

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse – four in a weedy field

Looping round, a Golden Eagle was being mobbed by two Ravens over the track ahead of us. We decided to head back into Bujaraloz for a break for coffee at the most fantastic truck stop café where the array of boccadillos and selection of fresh tapas and cakes eclipsed the fare on offer at most British roadside restaurants.

After our break, we headed out to have another go in a different area. Driving down another track, an Iberian Grey Shrike was feeding from a roadside at a junction ahead of us but was very jumpy and flew off over the field behind us before we could try to approach. We pulled up to check another field and one of the group noticed a Stone Curlew in the bare field behind us, which walked slowly away. It was sad to see another vast area being cultivated – it had obviously been ploughed some time before but had been left for some time and was overgrown and weedy before the machinery moved in. There were lots of commoner birds around the fields, larks, White Wagtails and Meadow Pipits, Linnets, Goldfinches and Serins, but we couldn’t find the bustards anywhere this afternoon.

As we made our way back to the main road, a male Hen Harrier disappeared away from us over the fields. We decided to meander our way back towards Belchite on the minor roads, to see what we could find on the way. We hadn’t got far from Bujaraloz when we stopped for a Peregrine overhead and another male Hen Harrier flew past. Then just a little further on, a Little Bustard flew over the road ahead of us and landed in the field the other side. A very rare bird in this area now, we found somewhere to stop but unfortunately something spooked it and it flew off before we could get out. A flock of about a dozen Pin-tailed Sandgrouse had been put up too and a Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew round calling.

After that, the drive back was mostly uneventful but as we got closer to Belchite we passed through an area which had traditionally been very good for sandgrouse and larks. We were very disappointed to find that almost all the fields have been cultivated this year, most with either young wheat or bare earth, and very few left to get weedy. A group of Red-legged Partridges were happy enough feeding out in a bare field but there were a couple of fields with some stubble left and pulling up at the first, a pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew out. As we approached the second, a Little Owl was staring angrily at us from a pile of rocks. There were a couple more Red-legged Partridge in here and a pair of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, which we just managed to get in the scope before they crept back out of view over a low ridge.

It had been a long day and the sun was starting to drop and it was getting colder again, so we made our way over to our accommodation for the night in Lecera. Unfortunately the local café has closed down since last year, but the hotel owners had opened a small dining area in a barn on site, with a woodburner and roaring fire to cook on and served us another wonderful meal of soup or spaghetti, followed by chargrilled chicken or sausages or rabbit stew.

THURSDAY 2ND MARCH

Our last day, but we didn’t have to be back at the airport in Barcelona until late afternoon so we would be able to make the most of the day. After a delicious last breakfast of tortilla, jamon and cheese, and croissants with homemade membrillo and apricot jam, we set off back to El Planeron. It was still in Lécera but much windier out on the plains, still quite cold, and quiet at first as drove in along the tracks.

We quickly located the same pair of Dupont’s Larks we had seen yesterday, but they were a little more distant and keeping mostly to the denser cover. We were really hoping to hear a bit more song this morning, but very little was singing. A Golden Eagle dropped down onto the ground off in the distance. We decided to try another track, to see if there was any more activity there, but it was even more exposed here. We did have great views of a pair of Mediterranean Short-toed Larks on the ground right by the track, the male singing. A few more Calandra Larks were starting to sing too now, so we turned around and went back to the pair of Dupont’s Larks. The male was just starting to sing now, which was great to hear, but they were still not showing as well as they had done yesterday.

Mediterranean (Lesser) Short-toed Lark – singing by the track

As we drove back towards the main road, we stopped briefly to look at the small wetland in the reserve. Several Marsh Harriers were hanging in the air and a few Lapwings were scattered around the edge. Two Black-bellied Sandgrouse landed briefly over the far side, then flew up again and dropped down into the fields near the exit track. We could see them still over that side as we drove out, but they were very jumpy and took off as soon as we pulled up.

We had a bit of time to play with, so we decided to have another quick look at the plains south of Bujaraloz, to see if we could locate any Great Bustards. We drove round some of the favoured fields but there was no sign at first, until we spotted one in flight way off in the distance. We watched it fly across and eventually it dropped down into a stubble field, so we raced on down the tracks to see if we could catch it there. Unfortunately when we got there it had disappeared – the field didn’t look particularly attractive for one, so presumably it had taken off again. We checked the tracks over the hillside beyond but there was no further sign of it. Frustrating!

There were a few Thekla’s Larks around the scrubby slopes. As we drove back down, we stopped to look at seven Black-bellied Sandgrouse in a wheat field which unusually stayed where they were, allowing us some nice views. We had several more things we wanted to try to see on our way back still, so we had to call time and move on. As we set off, we had three Golden Eagles over the road just east of town.

Black-bellied Sandgrouse – four of the seven

We stopped for lunch at a small lagoon near Candasnos. As we drove down towards the viewpoint, two Hoopoes flew up from the garden of a small house, one landing in a nearby pine tree. Three Red-crested Pochard, two Common Pochard and a lone drake Pintail, all additions to the trip list, were out on the water with lots of Teal and Mallard. Round the margins were a few Coot, Moorhen and Little Grebes and a few Great White Egrets and Grey Herons were loafing on the edge of the reeds. Several Chiffchaffs were flycatching from the vegetation, there were several Reed Buntings in the reeds and a couple of Cetti’s Warblers shouted at each other.

Our next target was Eagle Owl and closer to Lleida we drove down to a small rocky gorge on the edge of a village. We set the scopes up and the female Eagle Owl was staring back at us from a cleft in the rocks on the other side of the gorge. She gradually settled back down onto her eggs and we could just see the top of her head and her huge ear tufts. A male Blue Rock Thrush was on the roof of one of the buildings nearby. As we set off again, another Hoopoe flew ahead of us along the road and landed in the bushes on the verge.

Eagle Owl – on eggs

We drove on to a good area for Little Bustards and as we drove in along one of the tracks, we stopped to scan the fields. We could just see a few heads showing from a low wheat crop at first, then a few more heads appeared, but still only around a dozen birds. We drove a bit further on, where we could get out of the minibus behind a large evergreen tree and set up the scopes. We could just see a few heads from here still, but then something spooked them. Amazingly, a flock of 90 Little Bustards came up, followed by another 17 and whirled round overhead before dropping back down further back. There were still at least 5 Little Bustards in the wheat, so well over 100 birds in total here, a very impressive flock, given how rapidly they are declining in many places now.

Little Bustard – some of the 100+

We had to make our way back to Barcelona now, but we made good time on the journey and arrived with about half an hour to play with before we had to be at the airport. Time for one last stop, we drove to the beach just beyond the terminals. There are often Audouin’s Gulls here, but unusually there was no sign of any this afternoon – there were just a few Yellow-legged Gulls and a lone Black-headed Gull flew over. Several Gannets were flying round or plunge-diving offshore and four Shoveler flew past out over the sea. A Cirl Bunting flew up from the grass behind the beach.

Then it was over to the car rental return to drop off the minibus and time to check in. Our flight left on time and arrived at Gatwick over 15 minutes early, and when our bags arrived unusually quickly too it was only just after the time we were originally due to land. It is always nice when that happens, especially given it was late now. Then it was time to say our goodbyes and head off our respective ways.

9th Feb 2023 – Three Winter Days, Day 2

Day 2 of a three-day Private Winter Tour in Norfolk, and we headed down to the Broads. It was a cold start again, but no frost this morning, followed by another crisp, bright and sunny winter’s day.

It was a long drive down to the Broads this morning, and when we got to Ludham Bridge we diverted down towards St Benet’s to see if we could find any swans. As we drove in along the access track, all we could see were Mute Swans but then four geese in the grassy field by the track caught our eye. A quick check with binoculars confirmed our suspicion – they were Taiga Bean Geese. We pulled in to a convenient gateway and got the scope on them.

These Taiga Bean Geese were seen in pretty much the same place between 13th-16th January, but there have been no reports of them in the three-and-a-half weeks since. Where have they been hiding all this time? It is a big area, and they do spend lots of time down in low-lying wet ground where they can be very hard to see. Even so, it was a big surprise to find them here again, after everyone assumed they had moved on quickly.

Taiga Bean Geese – a surprise reappearance

While we were watching the Taiga Bean Geese, we looked round behind us and picked up four Common Cranes flying in over the marshes in the distance. They disappeared behind the old Abbey, but were immediately followed by another three Cranes, which appeared to be losing height as they were lost to view too. We figured they might be dropping down onto the marshes behind the Abbey, so once we had all enjoyed great views of the geese, we drove on to the car park and walked up onto the hill beyond. A couple of Stonechats flicked ahead of us as we made our way up and a large flock of Meadow Pipits flew up from the grass.

Scanning from the Abbey ruins, we couldn’t see any sign of the Cranes we had seen earlier. Two more Cranes did fly up from over towards the river, but unhelpfully they quickly dropped down again behind some reeds out of view. We could see several groups of swans out on the marshes from here and as well as a few more Mutes, we found a good number of Whooper Swans and eventually got reasonably views of them through the scope.

We had a lot we wanted to pack in today, so we moved on. We decided to try for better views of some Common Cranes first, so drove round to an area where we have seen them regularly recently. When we arrived, we found two out on one of the fields, so we got out and set the scope up. We had a nice view of them in the sunshine, which caught the red top to their heads as they preened. There had apparently been quite a few more Cranes here earlier, but we suspected that the one we had seen flying earlier had come from here. Good views of these two was plenty enough for us today though, and as we drove off, we looked back to see them flying off. Just in time!

Common Cranes – a pair in the fields

There had been three Smew from the hide at the Waterside Cafe at Rollesby Broad earlier, but they had apparently flown out further down the Broad. Before we stopped for a coffee in the cafe, we had a quick look from the hide anyway, but all we could see from here were Tufted Ducks and Coots now. A couple of Kingfishers zipped past. After our hot drinks, we drove a bit further along and scanned the remainder of Rollesby Broad. There was still no sign of the Smew, but we there was a nice raft of Common Pochard out here and a selection of gulls, including our first Lesser Black-backed Gull of the trip. A pair of Great Crested Grebes were displaying on Ormesby Broad, across the road.

Great Crested Grebes – displaying

From here, we drove round to Filby Broad next. On the walk from the car park, several Redwings flicked through the trees overhead and a Great Spotted Woodpecker stopped briefly in a dead tree by the path. Scanning from the boardwalk, we could see lots of ducks but they were mostly right over the far side. There were some nice Goldeneye a bit closer. We eventually picked up a Ferruginous Duck swimming quickly along in front of the reeds opposite, but it disappeared into a bay and we lost sight of it behind a line of reeds. A couple of times it did reappear briefly, diving in the entrance to the bay, just long enough for everyone to get a look through the scope.

It was time for lunch, but we decided to drive over to Strumpshaw so we could make use of the facilities there. There were more Redwings in the trees as we parked and walked over the railway line. A constant stream of birds were coming in and out of the feeders, so we sat at the picnic tables to eat and watch. As well as Blue Tits and Great Tits, there were several Long-tailed Tits and one or two Marsh Tits and Coal Tits kept darting in and out. A Great Spotted Woodpecker appeared briefly in the trees behind and a couple of Blackbirds, Redwings and a Song Thrush were feeding in the nearby ivy.

Marsh Tit – coming to the feeders

As we were finishing lunch, a Common Buzzard drifted over and then we noticed three Marsh Harriers circling up from the Fen. We watched as they drifted over towards Reception Hide and then two more Marsh Harriers appeared high above, calling and swooped back in down to the reeds, displaying. One of the staff from the Reception then kindly came out to tell us there were some Bearded Tits in the reeds on the island in the Broad. A quick dart back to get the scope from the minibus and we had some great views of them feeding on the seedheads.

Next stop was at Cantley Marshes. There were lots of geese out on the grass – several thousand Pink-footed Geese, which could hear calling as we got out of the minibus and we scoped first from the back of the car park and then from the other side of the railway crossing. From here, we could see a good number of White-fronted Geese loosely associating with them too. A couple of Lapwings were displaying out over the marshes, twisting and tumbling, and a couple of Ruff were out on the grass. There were several Chinese Water Deer out here too, and we watched one make its way over towards the railway. It was spooked by an approaching train, ran straight towards us, saw us at the last minute and turned tail and ran off back the other way.

Chinese Water Deer – spooked

Our final destination for the afternoon was Halvergate. As we pulled up in the car park, a Barn Owl was hunting out over the back of the marsh in front. Otherwise, it looked rather quiet at first, but how wrong first impressions can be. We picked up a Short-eared Owl out over the marsh the other side of the track and watched it through the scope as it worked its way away from us. Then we noticed a second Short-eared Owl a bit further over, and a second Barn Owl too. Then a ringtail Hen Harrier flew past low over the grass.

There had been a White-tailed Eagle seen a couple of times recently on Haddiscoe Island and it had been reported again yesterday. We could see the Island way off in the distance, to our right, but we weren’t really expecting to see the eagle from here. Then we looked over towards Great Yarmouth, off to our left, and there was the eagle flying across. It was distant but we had good views of it through the scope and we watched it fly all the way across over the levels and lost sight of it over towards Waveney Forest. This is one of the White-tailed Eagles released on the Isle of Wight, a 3rd calendar year female. She previously spent some time in North Norfolk, particularly at Holkham, before heading down to Essex and now returning to Norfolk.

White-tailed Eagle – huge!

We turned our attention back to the marshes, where one of the Short-eared Owls was circling up higher, pursued by two Carrion Crows. Eventually the Crows lost interest and it broke off into a long glide, eventually landing on one of the gates out on the marsh, where we could get it in the scope. Then it was time for us to head for home, a great end to our second day.

14th July 2022 – Summer 3-day Tour, Day 3

After a bright and sunny start it clouded over a bit more from late morning and there was a fresh breeze at times, which meant it thankfully didn’t get too hot today, maxing out at a pleasant 21C. We spent the day down in the Brecks and Fens.

Our first stop was Weeting, before it got to hot. We walked out to West Hide, and immediately found the Stone Curlews on the cultivated strip in front of the hide. They are back on eggs now, a second brood attempt, and their first brood young have been pushed out.

One of the adults was tucked down in the grass, sitting tight on the scrape. The other Stone Curlew was initially stood up behind, but sat down before we could get the scope on it and completely disappeared! We turned our attention to the first and could see its staring yellow eye. The second Stone Curlew then stood up again and let us get a good look now. Prehistoric-looking birds! A Green Woodpecker flew in over the heath and over the trees.

Stone Curlew – one of the adults

Having had a good look at the Stone Curlews, we went back outside. There was no sign of any Spotted Flycatchers by the hide – apparently their first nesting attempt has failed. We walked slowly down to the far end to see if there was anything in the trees, but it was rather quiet this morning.

We had a quick look from the hide at the end and there was lots of activity around the feeders in front – a selection of tits and finches coming in to the seed. A Marsh Tit appeared on one of the feeders briefly, and another came down to drink at the small pool in front. A smart male Yellowhammer was down in the grass below the feeders.

Yellowhammer – under the feeders

We walked back past the Visitor Centre and on to East Hide – but there was no sign of any Spotted Flycatchers down this end either, just a Jay high in the trees. There was nothing from the hide either, so we walked back. After a quick look at some of the scarcer speciality plants around the car park with the warden, James (including the rare naturalised tunic flower), we decided to move on.

Our next destination was Lakenheath Fen. As we walked out along the main track, there were still a few butterflies around the brambles – Small Tortoiseshells and a Comma. There were dragonflies too, several Ruddy Darters, Brown Hawkers, Common Blue and Azure Damselflies. A Southern Hawker was hanging on one of the poplars.

Southern Hawker – hanging on a poplar

We sat for a while on the benches at New Fen Viewpoint, looking out over the reeds. A juvenile Marsh Harrier circled up in the distance, before landing in a bush in the reeds. We got it in the scope and admired its burnt orange head. A little later it took off again and drifted much closer, eventually circling over the pool right in front of us, a great view. A female Marsh Harrier was perched on a bush further back, we could see its much paler head and pale markings on its wings.

Marsh Harrier – a juvenile

A Bittern appeared from the back of the reedbed, over in front of West Wood, and we watched it as it flew across towards the river. It passed right in front of a second Bittern going the other way! The first flew over the riverbank and disappeared, so we turned our attentions to the second and watched it fly out over the reeds and drop down at the back. A short while later, it flew up again – it turned and looked for a second like it might fly towards us but then dropped down again.

We heard a Kingfisher call but it didn’t appear. There were several Four-spotted Chasers and an Emperor Dragonfly hawking low over the water. There was no more sign of the Bitterns, so we decided to move on.

We walked down the path on the bank beside the reedbed. A family of Common Whitethroats was feeding in the hemlock, and flicked off ahead of us before flying across the path. We heard a Bearded Tit call and had a brief view as it skimmed over the top of the reeds. There were more dragonflies and butterflies along here, and we stopped to admire a mating pair of Ruddy Darters.

Ruddy Darter – a mating pair

We had just got in to Mere Hide when we heard a Kingfisher call and looked out through the window at the far end to see two flying across low over water. One landed briefly but out of view from where we were and unfortunately didn’t linger and flew off calling again.

There were lots of damselflies on the islands of weed out on the water in front of the hide. Looking through them, we found both (Large) Red-eyed Damselflies and a Small Red-eyed Damselfly, the first time we have seen the latter here. A nice bonus. There was not much else going on in here, and it was nearly lunch time so we decided to press on. On our way back to the main path, a Black-tailed Skimmer was basking on the gravel in front of us and a female Common Blue butterfly was nectaring on the thistles.

Small Red-eyed Damselfly – on the blanket week

When we got to Joist Fen viewpoint, we stopped for lunch on the benches. It was rather quiet here today, the Bitterns probably having fledged already, and there was no sign of either pair of Cranes. The Cormorant was on its usual dead tree, drying its wings, and several Marsh Harriers circled over the reedbed in the distance. We did see a nice juvenile Bearded Tit feeding low down in the reeds in front of the viewpoint.

One of the wardens was cutting the grass paths with an ATV and having done the public paths drove out along the track across Joist Fen beyond the barrier. Everything flushed from the pools – and we looked over to see eight Great White Egrets in flight together, along with at least three Grey Herons and a selection of ducks. A Green Sandpiper appeared over the reeds closer to us briefly, but unfortunately dropped down again almost immediately.

After lunch, we walked back along the riverbank, and not surprisingly activity was subdued in the heat of the afternoon. A Grey Heron was standing motionless on the far bank and a few Banded Demoiselles fluttered over the river. We stopped for a quick scan of Hockwold Washes. There were lots of Lapwings, a large group of Black-tailed Godwits and two moulting male Ruff right at the back of the remaining water. Several Teal, a pair of Shoveler and a few Gadwall were swimming around in the middle.

When everything erupted from the water, we looked up to see a Peregrine flying over. It came over to our side of the river and circled slowly over towards East Wood. It looked rather tatty, a moulting young brid.

Peregrine – over Hockwold Washes

A Cetti’s Warbler shouted from the sallows as we made our way back to the Visitor Centre for a well-deserved ice cream and/or cold drink. The warden kindly showed us some nice trail cam video of one of the pairs of Cranes with their two young, from a couple of weeks ago, just before they fledged.

We hadn’t seen any Cranes ourselves so we decided to have a drive deeper into the Fens to see if we could find any. We didn’t have to go too far today. Scanning an overgrown meadow, we could see two heads sticking out of the long grass. We managed to get out and get them in the scope, a pair of Cranes.

Common Crane – one of the pair

A little further on, we noticed a Hobby hawking low over a set aside field beside the road. We watched as it caught and ate several dragonflies or butterflies.

Hobby – and discarded butterfly wing!

It was great to pick up both Crane and Hobby, as we hadn’t seen either at Lakenheath Fen today – a nice way to round things off. With long journeys ahead for some of the group, it was time to wrap things up now and head back. It had been a really exciting three days, with some really good birds and a nice selection of other summer wildlife.

15th June 2022 – Summer Tour, Day 3

Day 3 of a three day Summer Tour. It was a bright, sunny day and the heat built through the morning and into the afternoon, reaching 25C early pm. We spent the day down in the Brecks and the Fens.

It was a slow drive down to The Brecks this morning, not helped by some roadworks in Swaffham with poorly sited traffic lights which was causing a big tailback. We eventually got to Weeting Heath just as the Visitor Centre was about to open, so we made our way straight down towards West Hide. We stopped to look at a tit flock high in the pines – Coal Tits, Great Tits, Blue Tits and Long-tailed Tits accompanied by a Treecreeper. Then we noticed a Spotted Flycatcher flick out and land in one of the trees by the path. It remained motionless for a couple of seconds then disappeared back deeper in to the trees.

From the hide, we quickly located several Stone Curlews, two adults and two juveniles, the latter well grown now. They were all sitting down among the clods of earth and low vegetation and hard to see initially, but we got the scope on them. One adult and one of the juveniles were more obvious, but the others disappeared completely until they stood up. When they did, we had a much better view, and we were early enough that the heat haze was not too bad yet.

Stone Curlew – one of the four

Five regular (Eurasian) Curlew flew in calling and landed in the grass at the back and there were several Lapwings scattered about too. When the Stone Curlews all sat down again, we decided to move on. After popping in to the Visitor Centre which was now open, to admire some of the moths which had been trapped by the warden and were chilling in the fridge, we made our way round to Lakenheath Fen next.

On the walk out, once again the brambles were full of butterflies, Small Tortoiseshells, Red Admirals, one or two Painted Ladys and a Comma, which was a welcome addition to the trip butterfly list. We moved a very big Drinker moth caterpillar off the path into the neighbouring vegetation. There were dragonflies in the reeds too, including an over mature female Scarce Chaser (with hints of grey!), and a smart Four-spotted Chaser further up which posed nicely.

Four-spotted Chaser – posed nicely

It was already warming up and it was going to be a hot day so we stopped for a rest at New Fen Viewpoint. As we walked up, a Bittern flew up from the reeds right in front. We watched it as it flew round in a wide circle over the reedbed and disappeared off between the two woods at the back.

Bittern – flew off as we walked up

We sat here on the benches for a while and watched. One or two Reed Warblers flicked round the edge of the reeds and a Reed Bunting was singing in the tops across the other side of pool. A Marsh Harrier flew in from the direction of the river and dropped down at the back. A Little Egret flew out and later back in, and a Grey Heron staked around in the shallow, standing motionless staring into the water.

Before everyone took root, we set off again, along the path on the top of the bank on the edge of New Fen North. The hemlock is very tall now and it is hard to see the fen at times along here, but we did pick up another Bittern which flew round over the reeds and dropped in front of West Wood. When we got to the far end, we scanned the edge of the reeds all round but there was no further sign of it – presumably it had dropped deeper into the reeds.

Cuckoo – flew out of the trees

A Cuckoo was calling from deep in West Wood. Some of the adults have already left the UK but a few are still here, so it was nice just to hear one. But as we walked down along the side of the trees, the Cuckoo flew out along the front edge so we could see it too. A Kestrel came out of the trees too.

We stopped next to admire a smart Great Crested Grebe on one of the pools by the track. A Mute Swan was bathing very noisily behind the reeds here too.

Great Crested Grebe – on one of the pools

It was a good day for Bitterns. As we were just walking up to Joist Fen Viewpoint, what was presumably another bird (but could possibly have been the Bittern we saw fly this way earlier) flew towards us from Joist Fen and straight past us over the reeds. We watched it head back through the gap in the trees and disappear round behind West Wood.

Bittern – another flew past

At Joist Fen Viewpoint, we had brought our packed lunches with us today so we settled down for lunch in the shelter out of the sun, looking out over the reeds. There were lots of distractions – several distant Marsh Harriers and two different Hobbys circled up, hunting dragonflies. A Cormorant was perched on its usual post, drying its wings. A Cetti’s Warbler and a Common Whitethroat were both singing in the eldes nearby.

While we were eating our lunches, another two more Bitterns flew past – both in towards us over Joist Fen and away over the reeds behind, one towards New Fen North and the other round the north side of West Wood. Checking photos of the first of these two Bitterns we could see that it was ringed. This is a bird which is well known to us!

Bittern – the returning ringed female

Very few Bitterns are ringed in the UK, but a juvenile female was picked up unwell from a roadside pond in Letchworth in September 2016. After a couple of days, it had recovered and was ringed before it was released. Then, on 25th June 2017 we photographed it here at Lakenheath Fen while out with a group, which caused a bit of excitement! We have seen it here several times since, in the summer, and it appears that it commutes back down to Herts for the winter. But this is the first time we have seen it since 2019, so nice to know it is still here!

After lunch, we set off to walk back along the riverbank. It was getting hot now and activity was a little more muted. We did see a Jay in the trees on the edge of West Wood and a pair of Mute Swans on one of the pools by the river.

Mute Swan – and reflection

We stopped for a quick look at Hockwold Washes. There were lots of ducks out in the shallow water, mainly Gadwall, plus a few Shoveler and, more surprisingly, several Teal. There were lots of Lapwings over the back, several Avocets and a couple of Redshanks. Given the heat, we didn’t linger and made our way back to the Visitor Centre for some very welcome ice creams all round (the rhubarb & ginger was particularly popular!).

After we had recovered, we decided it was too hot for another long walk. We hadn’t seen any Cranes here, and just the one distant one in flight yesterday in the Broads, so we decided to have a drive round deeper into the Fens to see if we could find any. We drove to an area where we thought we stood a good chance and kept stopping to scan the fields.

When we heard a Corn Bunting singing, we pulled up to listen and one of the group looking out the other way noticed there were several Cranes in the field right next to us! We hadn’t noticed them because they were behind the reeds as we drove up. They slowly walked back away from us as we watched from the minibus to avoid disturbing them. We counted a total of eleven Cranes, a great result!

Common Cranes – several of the eleven

The Corn Bunting had gone quiet when we finally turned our attention back to listening for is, but as we drove back, several Yellowhammers and two Corn Buntings flew out from the verge ahead of us.

It was time to head back now, but we did manage to squeeze in a quick last stop on the way. We pulled up next to a forestry clearing and got out. It was quiet at first, and we thought we might be out of luck given it was hot and sunny and the middle of the afternoon. But then a Tree Pipit flew up out of the middle of the clearing and landed on a dead branch in the top of the tree on one side. We all had a good view through the scope before it dropped down out of view to the ground below. As we were getting back into the minibus, we noticed it was back up in the tree and we could hear it singing.

A nice way to finish, we dropped some of the group off in Swaffham and then continued back up to North Norfolk where we parted company. It had been a very enjoyable three days of birds and other wildlife, across three very different parts of Norfolk.

10th Feb 2022 – Private Winter, Broads & Brecks, Day 2

Day 2 of a three day Private Winter Tour today. The weather was much nicer, cloudy to start but getting progressively brighter through the day, if a little chilly, particularly out in the fresh W wind. We spent the day down in the Norfolk Broads.

After the long drive down to the Broads, we started with a quick circuit of Ludham Airfield. We looked in the field where the swans had been a few days ago, but there was just one lone Whooper Swan out on the winter wheat today, looking rather lonely. The Bewick’s Swans which we had seen here had obviously gone elsewhere.

Whooper Swan – just the one here

We continued on round the airfield, and came across a melee of gulls following a huge harvester in the process of harvesting a sugar beet field. There were lots of gulls loafing around close to the road and then we noticed an egret just beyond them, standing on the cultivated ground in the field, not far from the edge. It was a Cattle Egret!

There have been a handful of Cattle Egrets in the Broads this winter but this was a bizarre place to see one. It walked over to where the harvester had just been through and picked at the ground. Then when all the gulls flew over to follow the harvester on the other side of field, the Cattle Egret flew over there with them. Perhaps it should be called Sugar Beet Egret instead!

Cattle Egret – following the sugar beet harvester

We circled back round to Ludham village and down to St Benet’s Levels to see if there were any more swans there this morning. A Cetti’s Warbler was singing from the reeds by the river as we pulled up. There were indeed lots of swans out on the grazing marshes, but as we scanned through with the scopes we could see they were all Whooper Swans with the Mute Swans. There was no sign of any Bewick’s Swans here either.

Whooper Swans – with the Mute Swans

It has been a poor year for Bewick’s Swans here in the UK, continuing a trend of declining numbers coming here for the winter. With milder weather on the Continent in recent winters, they are ‘short-stopping’, staying to feed around the Baltic rather than continuing west. It was also feeling like the few that had come here this winter might have left early – there were several groups seen flying over places other than their regular wintering spots over the last few days.

We scanned the grazing marshes to see if there was anything else out there. We found a few Chinese Water Deer but no sign of any Cranes today and otherwise it was rather quiet here. We decided to move on.

There have been some Cranes at Clippesby in recent days so we drove round to look for those next. One of the locals was already there when we arrived and broke the news to us – there was no sign of any Cranes now, despite eight reported here earlier this morning. We swung round via some of the other fields where we had seen them in recent weeks but they were not there either. It was not going to plan!

Moving on, we headed for Rollesby Broad next. As we got out of the minibus, a pair of Great Crested Grebes were swimming on the water just off the bank, looking very smart now. A raft of Common Pochard and Tufted Duck was over by the reeds at the back and several Goldeneye were out in the middle of the Broad. A Grey Wagtail flew off calling and a Lesser Black-backed Gull was loafing on the sailing club jetty.

We quickly found what we had come for too – the Red-necked Grebe was over the back, with the Pochard. We had good views of it through the scope, if a little distant. It even appears to be getting a little bit of summer red on its neck already, which was apparent when it turned and caught the light.

Red-necked Grebe – still here

An odd-looking duck in with the Pochard caught our eye too. It was tricky to get a good look at first, given the distance and the fact that it was diving continually. It was a female, noticeably darker than the female Pochards and rather rich reddish brown on the head and breast. It appeared to have some white under the tail too.

The shape looked like a female Ferruginous Duck but it was not quite right for that species. The flanks were scalloped with pale, contrasting slightly with the darker breast, the undertail was not clean and square and the belly was dirty. These ducks hybridise very regularly, particularly escaped captive stock, and this was most like a hybrid Ferruginous Duck x Common Pochard. Interesting to see though.

Ferruginous Duck x Pochard hybrid – on the left

Round via Martham for a quick loo stop, we headed north along the coast road. We pulled in at a concrete pad to scan the fields, where a large flock of Pink-footed Geese was feeding on the grass. Three Egyptian Geese were in the field the other side of the road. A large flock of Golden Plover was out on the grass too with the Lapwing.

Scanning round, we picked up three distant Common Cranes on the bank at the back. It was a family party, two adults and last year’s juvenile still with them. The female and juvenile walked down into the reeds to feed, but what was presumably the male stayed on the bank for a bit longer, keeping watch. It then walked a little closer towards us, before dropping down behind the bank. A good start, to find some Cranes, but we would still like to see some closer.

Common Crane – one of a family of three

We carried on north and found another huge flock of Pink-footed Geese, feeding in a recently harvested sugar beet field this time. We had a quick look through from the shelter of the minibus – we couldn’t see anything obviously different with them, but lots of the geese were out of view.

We were still trying to find a Bewick’s Swan, but it is mostly Mute Swans along here these days. We had better luck further up at Ingham. We could see several swans still out on the wet fields as we drove up and a quick look revealed two Bewick’s Swans on the edge of a small pool. Success at last! We parked carefully and got out to get them in the scopes.

Bewick’s Swan – just one pair today

There were plenty of swans but mostly Mute Swans in the fields here too now. We found two Whooper Swans a little further up with them, but unless they were just feeding elsewhere today, it did feel rather like a lot of the swans have already departed.

Knowing that the Common Cranes can come and go during the day, we swung back round via Clippesby again. Sure enough, there were Cranes in the fields here now. We pulled up and waited for the pigeons to flush from the maize strip near the road and the Cranes to settle, then got out very carefully.

Common Cranes – part of the flock of 30

Some were out of view, but as they walked around we counted at least 30 Cranes here now. One bird had in with then was sporting a set of colour rings, the Finnish bird ringed as juvenile in July 2020, and resident here since April 2021. All the Norfolk Cranes are genuine wild birds, not part of the reintroduction scheme on the Somerset Levels, having first reintroduced themselves back in 1979 and numbers have steadily expanded here since. The presence of the colour-ringed Finnish Crane here now shows just how birds can drift over the North Sea by mistake on their way north from their wintering grounds in Spain.

There were lots of Red-legged Partridges in the ploughed field nearest the road. Lots of small birds were coming and going from the cut maize strip along the far edge and training the scope on the hedge we could see lots of Yellowhammers and Reed Buntings there.

From here, we made our way down to Strumpshaw Fen for lunch. A small group of Siskins flew in and landed in the alders by the car park as we arrived. A steady stream of tits was coming and going from the feeders by the picnic tables including both Marsh Tits and Coal Tits, which gave good views as we ate.

Marsh Tit – on the feeders

After lunch, we had a quick look on the Reception pool. There were several Shoveler, lots of Gadwall and Coot out there today, but we couldn’t see anything different despite scanning the reeds carefully.

We had some time to play with, but not enough to go for a long walk now, so we swung round to Buckenham for a quick look out on the grazing marshes. There were lots of Pink-footed Geese there, plus the resident Canadas and Greylags, but no sign of any other geese today. The Wigeon close by the track offered their usual good photographic opportunites and there was a good number of Shelduck on the pools by the fishermen’s car park. A small flock of Golden Plover flew over and something spooked all the Lapwing up from the back but we couldn’t see what.

On our way out, we had seen just two Mistle Thrushes in the paddocks, but on the way back, they were now full of Redwings and Fieldfares. We had a quick look from the minibus as we passed. Several Goldfinches dropped down in the middle too.

Redwing – in the paddocks

We planned to finish up at Hickling Broad, so we parked in the car park and checked in at Visitor Centre. The cloud which had been with us all day had cleared through as we drove here and it was bright and sunny now. We set off along the path to Stubb Mill. Two Egyptian Geese were loafing in the winter wheat behind the hedge and a Muntjac was out in the middle of the field. A Stock Dove flew off. A female Kestrel dropped down out of the hedge to the ground.

There were lots of ducks on Brendan’s Marsh – Teal, Shoveler, Gadwall, and one or two Wigeon. Several Common Snipe flushed from the bank as we walked past and flew out to the middle, where a single Redshank was picking around. A Great White Egret flew across over the reeds at the back, turned and dropped down out of view.

We continued on down to the corner and climbed up onto the bank. Several Marsh Harriers were still quartering out over the reeds and we were just scanning when a bird flying low across caught the light. Bittern! Unfortunately, despite shouting immediately, it dropped back down into the reeds before everyone could get onto it.

Looking out from the Stubb Mill viewpoint, we could already see quite a few Marsh Harriers in, flying back and forth over the reeds or perched in the bushes. Others were drifting in slowly all the time we were there. We had a peak count of 24 all in the air together at one point, but there were still a few more which came in after that.

Several huge flocks of Pink-footed Geese came up from the fields way off towards the coast, presumably the birds we had seen earlier in the sugar beet over at Waxham given the direction, heading off to roost. Another Great White Egret flew across over the reeds at the back. A flock of Linnets whirled around and landed in the oak trees a couple of times and there was a good selection of mammals to look at Chinese Water Deer, Muntjac, Brown Hare and a Rabbit out on the grass.

Pink-footed Geese – heading off to roost

Things were slow coming in tonight, probably out enjoying the late sunshine, making the most of it and hunting to the last. Finally a Hen Harrier appeared, a smart grey male, across over the reeds at back. It spend a few minutes flying round in and out of the bushes in reedbed where the Marsh Harriers were gathering.

With the nights drawing out, it would be late to stay right until dark tonight and people were starting to get cold now. With a long drive back, we decided it was time to call it a day. We had another busy day to look forward to tomorrow.

31st Jan-4th Feb 2020 – Extremadura in Winter

A five day International Tour to Extremadura, organised together our friends from Oriole Birding. An annual destination for us, this year we did the winter version of the tour again. If you like what you see, you are welcome to join us for our next visit, in Spring 2021!

FRIDAY 31^ST JANUARY

Our 06.45 flight from London Stansted arrived into Madrid a few minutes early, and with typical Spanish efficiency, our bags were there waiting for us when we cleared passport control. It didn’t take too long before we picked up our rental minibus and got underway, on the long drive down to Extremadura.

The sun was out now in the capital and as we made our way out through the suburbs a small kettle of White Storks was circling over the motorway, possibly early migrants on their way north. We also encountered several groups of Common Magpies, up to ten at a time, flying over. A common bird here, but there were so many we wondered whether they might be on their way somewhere rather than just local birds. Out into the countryside, and we started to see numerous Red Kites and more White Storks, with several on their untidy nests on buildings and pylons by the road, as well as our first Iberian Grey Shrikes on the wires.

We could see the edge of the cloud ahead of us and we didn’t get far into our journey before we drove into it. From then on, it was rather grey, misty, with patches of drizzle. When we stopped for lunch at the services beyond Talavera, it had stopped raining and the weather looked to be brightening up a bit. A Crested Lark was running around on the tarmac in the car park and a Common Buzzard perched on a nearby pylon.

After lunch, we drove back into the cloud and rain for a while, but then as it started to clear again we spotted our first Common Cranes. A couple of the group saw three one side of the road first, in the open dehesa woodland, and then we drove past a larger flock of about twenty or so on the other side, in between the trees, which everyone was able to get onto.

We turned off the motorway to Saucedilla and parked by the Visitor Centre for the Embalse de Almaraz-Arrocampo nature reserve, which was closed. Three Barn Swallows flew over – we would see a lot this trip, with birds seeming returning early in numbers this year, this far south. A White Wagtail was walking round on the short grass.

As we walked down to the first hide, a large mixed flock of finches flew up from the rough ground. There were well over 100 birds, including a good number of Linnets but up to half were European Serins. We got some in the scope, feeding on the ground, then flying up onto the fence and perching in the trees over by the Visitor Centre, the males with their bright yellow breasts. A couple of Western Marsh Harriers came up, patrolling over the reeds, and beyond we spotted a smaller raptor hovering in the distance. It was a Black-winged Kite, so we got it in the scope for a closer look. The weather seemed to warm up a little, and three Griffon Vultures circled up and drifted over.

From down by Hide 1, we could hear Penduline Tits calling and looked across to see a pair perched in the tops and picking at the seedheads of the bulrushes. We got them in the scope, but unfortunately they dropped down again before everyone could see them. A couple of Kingfishers were calling, and zipping back and forth low over the water, but wouldn’t perch out in the open. A lone Glossy Ibis flew up from the back of the sedge beds and dropped down to the fields beyond, out of view. A flock of Cattle Egrets flew across further back, off around the other side of the reserve.

White Stork – a pair on their untidy nest platform

As we walked on down the track beyond the hide, we could see several pairs of White Storks on nests, one of which was quite close. The birds flew off as we walked past, dropping down to the fields nearby, but a little later, the pair flew back in behind us, and we could hear their bill clapping display as they greeted each other.

There were several Chiffchaffs in the sedges, flitting around flycatching, and a couple of Sardinian Warblers which were typically more skulking. A Hoopoe landed briefly in a tree, before flying off over the fields, and a Starling perched in the brambles nearby was of the common, spotted variety which occurs here in winter. A Green Sandpiper flew overhead calling. We heard the grating calls of one or two Western Purple Swamphens, and a couple of times one flew up out of the reeds, but quickly dropped back down again. There was no further sign of the Penduline Tits, unfortunately. Walking back round past Hide 1, we checked out the sedges in front of the hide again. A smart male Spanish Sparrow was perched in the brambles in a group of females, so we had a look at it in the scope.

Driving through the village, two Spotless Starlings were on the wires, our first confirmed ones of the trip. We made our way round to the hides on the other side of the reservoir, and stopped by Hide 5. There was not much on the pool here today, just a few Mallard. Several more Barn Swallows were hawking for insects low over the water. A Common Sandpiper came up from the smaller pool on the other side of the road, and landed on the muddy edge at the back where it fed along the shore with a Grey Wagtail. A Black-winged Kite flew out of the trees and away over the road, but a little later, one of the group spotted the same or another Black-winged Kite perched in the trees at the back beyond the water. Another Hoopoe flew over our heads and several White Wagtails and a small flock of Skylarks was feeding out in the grassy field.

Carrying on down the road, we couldn’t find the flock of Cattle Egrets we had seen earlier from round on this side now. We still had a bit of travelling to get to the hotel, so we decided it was time to be heading back. Before we got back to the village, we stopped to scan another large area of sedges and noticed yet another Black-winged Kite hovering over the fields beyond. It landed on a tree down along a side track, so we set off after it, but we got distracted on the way by an Iberian Grey Shrike on the fence alongside us. We stopped to watch it, dropping down to the ground and back up to another fence post further along each time.

Black-winged Kite – one of several we saw at Saucedilla

The Black-winged Kite was now off again, and we drove down to where it was hovering, but it flew off over the fields when we pulled up. We had a quick look at the southern arm of the reservoir on our way back to the motorway. There were lots of Cormorants out on the concrete wall in the middle of the water, but not much else.

All things considered, we had been very lucky with the weather – we quickly drove into patches of misty low cloud and drizzle again on the journey south on the motorway. Three more Common Cranes flew over the road ahead of us, heading off to roost. We got to our hotel and checked in. Then after a short break to get settled in, we enjoyed a welcome drink with a selection of local cheeses, salami and chorizo, followed by a delicious traditional meal.

SATURDAY 1^ST FEBRUARY

It looked foggy and damp outside when we met for breakfast, but the fog had lifted by the time we met at the minibus and although it was still very cloudy the light was beginning to improve as the sun started to come up. One or two Corn Buntings were singing as we set off and a Hoopoe perched on the wires by the access road. We drove through Trujillo and out along the Santa Marta road. Parking by a small reservoir, as we got out of the minibus, an Iberian Grey Shrike was perched on the bushes in front of us. We were surrounded with bird song – larks and Corn Buntings. A pair of Thekla Larks was feeding around the rocks down in the grass below us.

Thekla Lark – one of a pair first thing this morning

Huge flocks of Spanish Sparrows, several hundred strong kept flying round and landing in the trees on the slope behind us. A Rock Sparrow landed briefly on the fence in front of us but flew off before everyone could get onto it. A large group of Iberian Magpies came out of the trees on the other side of the road, and landed down on the short grass where we could get a look at them through the scope.

Spanish Sparrows – we found some huge flocks out on the plains

Moving on a little further along the road, we drove down a drovers track which heads out across the plains. When we stopped again and got out, Calandra Larks were singing all around us and we could see their black underwings with broad white trailing edges as they flew round past us. Several Golden Plover were feeding out on the short grass, with the numerous Lapwings. Two pairs of Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew up separately, crossing the track further up, but both landed out of view behind a ridge.

A small group of Great Bustards flying across in the distance only broke the skyline briefly and disappeared behind a ridge too before anyone could get onto them. We drove a bit further up the track to see if we could find where they might have landed, but there was no further sign. We did find a Merlin perched very distantly on a rock across the plains. And as we turned to come back and stopped again, we found a pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouse on the ground up on a ridge which this time lingered so we could get them in the scope.

Black-bellied Sandgrouse – we had a good look at a pair, up on the ridge

We hoped the bustards might have gone over the hill to where we had stopped earlier, so we drove back round there for our morning coffee stop. There was no sign of them here either, but there were several Rock Sparrows now, feeding with the Spanish Sparrows down in the grass. A Black Redstart perched on the fence.

After coffee, we drove on through Santa Marta and stopped just beyond the bridge over the Rio Magasca. Several Crag Martins were flying round over the hillside and we managed to see a Woodlark which was singing over the trees on the ridge, before it dropped down out of view. One or two Serins were singing too. Walking down across the bridge, a Black Redstart flicked up on the rocks the other side. Several Long-tailed Tits were calling in the trees and a couple flew across right past us, very dusky birds of the distinctive local race irbii.

We followed the path down to the river, where loads of Chiffchaffs were flitting around, flycatching in the bushes along the bank, along with a single Blackcap. A Kingfisher called as it flew off up the river and a Grey Wagtail was feeding on the rocks out in the middle, where a Spanish Terrapin was resting too before it dropped into the water. A Small Heath which flew up from the grass was our first butterfly of the trip.

Back to the minibus, we drove on to the junction with the Monroy road and stopped again to scan the plains. It was starting to warm up now and lots of white butterflies were fluttering round the grass but wouldn’t land. A large kettle of vultures was circling up away to the west and out across the plains, a single Black Vulture was out on the ground in the distance, stretching its wings.

Calandra Lark – flew up singing as it warmed up

Further along, we stopped again. The Calandra Larks were out in force now and singing all around us, with two males chasing each other round overhead. Scanning the fields the other side, we found a small group of six Pin-tailed Sandgrouse down in the short grass, then as we looked further across we saw loads more. In the end we counted at least sixty! We walked over to the other side of the road for a closer look through the scope.

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse – part of a flock of 60 we found in a field

Walking back to where we had parked the minibus, we had to pick our way round all the caterpillars in webs in the grass. One of the group had gone ahead, and shouted as he got to the bus. Four Great Bustards flew across out over the fields beyond and landed on the short grass. We had a good view of them in the scope – great for everyone finally to catch up with some bustards, iconic birds of the Extremaduran plains.

Great Bustards – three of the four we found at our lunch stop

After lunch, we carried on further down the road, and stopped for a quick look at a Little Owl on a wall out in the middle of a field. Another two Little Owls were on the top of a ruined barn in the distance the other side.

There had been a Sociable Lapwing not far away seen several times in recent weeks, but we were not sure whether it had been seen in the last week. We had managed to get hold of the co-ordinates for where it had been seen, so we drove over to see if we could find it. As we drove down a rather rough track, it suddenly seemed to get very busy (rush hour on the plains!). We were overtaken twice, and when we stopped at the right spot several more trucks came bouncing past. All the regular Northern Lapwings which had been out on the grass near to the track flushed and several groups flew off, although we couldn’t see the Sociable Lapwing with them.

Some fodder had been spread across the grass, and a few Corn Buntings and two Rock Sparrows were feeding in the straw. Some of the Lapwings started to drop back in and scanning carefully across the grass further back, we found the Sociable Lapwing, smaller and browner than the regular Lapwings and with a striking pale supercilium. Sociable Lapwings breed across the Central Asian steppes and winter mainly in East Africa, the Middle East and into Pakistan and NW India. It is principally a rare vagrant to Western Europe but one or two appear most winters in Iberia and it is thought that this may be a regular wintering location for very limited numbers. The species is listed as Critically Endangered as its population has undergone a very rapid decline in recent years, so it is a great bird to be able to see.

Sociable Lapwing – we managed to catch up with this wintering bird

Making our way back west, towards Monroy we stopped abruptly as a raptor drifted high over the road, a Spanish Imperial Eagle. We all piled out and got it in the scope as it circled up, eventually drifted away to south. A welcome bonus, as this is not a site where we often see them. Further on, three Griffon Vultures were loafing on the pylons by the road, so we stopped again for a closer look.

Spanish Imperial Eagle – circled over the road this afternoon

Beyond Monroy, there were lots of Common Cranes in the dehesa by the road. We got out very carefully and had a good look at a large group before something eventually spooked them. Several hundred took off from where we couldn’t see them and landed further back out of view in the trees, and more were still bugling further on. We stopped again a couple of hundred metres down the road, were two very obliging Cranes were standing in a field of yellow flowers.

Common Crane – we found hundreds in the dehesa this afternoon

Driving down towards Caceres, we were taken aback at the enormous scale of the new solar farms being built out in the middle of the countryside. What will the ecological impact of all this construction be?

Dropping down towards the Rio Almonte, we stopped just beyond the bridge. Lots of Crag Martins and House Martins were circling overhead and flying down to prospect their nest sites under the bridge. As we walked down the track towards the river, a female Blue Rock Thrush was on the rocks below us, but flew low across the water and disappeared on the bank the other side. We were just scanning to see if we could find it again, when one of the group found a Black Wheatear along the far bank, low down on the rocks. We had a good view of it in the scope, jet black with a striking white base to the tail. A second Black Wheatear on the near bank, further up, was a sooty brown female. A smart male Black Redstart appeared briefly on the rocks closer to the road bridge.

Time was getting on now, and we still wanted to make one last stop. As we drove out along the minor road onto the plains, there were lots of Lesser Black-backed Gulls in the fields. A small pool beside the road held a surprising selection of ducks – two Shoveler and six Gadwall, along with several expected Mallards. A Raven was perched on the top of a pylon and as we stopped and got out, we realised there were Red Kites everywhere, flying round, and perched on pylons and fence posts all around us.

A Great Bustard came up from the crop field, away on one side of the road, quickly followed by two more. They flew across the road and dropped down onto the plain in the distance. More and more followed, in ones and twos, until we eventually counted 24 Great Bustards which all flew across the road. We drove further up to see if we could see where they had landed, flushing loads of Corn Buntings and Meadow Pipits from the fences as we passed. We could see two Great Bustards distantly out on the grass, but the light was fading fast now. Another delicious dinner awaited us back at the hotel.

SUNDAY 2^ND FEBRUARY

The regular flock of Iberian Magpies was by the parking area first thing, as we packed up the minibus, before flying down to the paddocks across the road. A Blackcap was in the bushes nearby. As we drove down to the main road, an Iberian Grey Shrike was on the top of a telegraph post and a Hoopoe flew in and landed on the wires next to it.

Iberian Grey Shrike – perched on a post by the road

Hoopoe – flew in and landed on the wires by the shrike

Again, there were quite a few Barn Swallows on our drive south, on wires in the villages and flying round. A pair of House Martins were already prospecting nests in Zorita village. A little further on, we pulled up alongside a pool by the road, where a Great White Egret was fishing. Two Black-winged Stilts were on the far edge of the water too.

Our first destination for the day was the reservoir at Alcollarin, and we pulled up by the dam to scan from here first. There was huge numbers of  ducks out on the water, the thousands of Northern Shoveler being particularly impressive, along with hundreds of Wigeon and Teal. Looking more closely through the vast throngs, we found a few Gadwall, a couple of pairs of Pintail and a single lone Tufted Duck too. Two pairs of Egyptian Geese were on the far shore.

There were lots of grebes as well, particularly Great Crested Grebes and Little Grebes, but also quite a few Black-necked Grebes out in the middle. Mostly the latter were in black and white winter plumage, but a couple were already coming into breeding dress, with black necks and golden ear-tufts. A very distant Spoonbill and Black Stork could be made out at the far end, and the size difference between a Great White Egret and a Little Egret could be appreciated even at that distance. A Kingfisher landed on a dead stump on the water’s edge at the back, where it shone in the morning sunshine. A Sardinian Warbler flew across into the olive trees by the parking area. When a large group of noisy cyclists came over the dam towards us, we decided to move on.

As we drove down the track on the hillside east side of the reservoir, we stopped again to scan. We could see there were more Spoonbills than we had been able to make out earlier, at least five together now, busy sifting in the shallow water. Lots of White Storks were standing out on the short grass and the Black Stork was nearby, to compare. A Woodlark was singing over the hillside behind. As the mob of cyclists came down the track, everything took off and flew back towards the main reservoir out of view.

The first Red Kite of the day circled up over the hills beyond, and we looked over to see two Ravens mobbing a pale raptor on a rock, just as it dropped off and disappeared behind, out of view. Our first impression was Booted Eagle, but they are mainly summer visitors here. We continued on to the picnic area by the smaller pool further down and walked out onto the platform by the small dam. Scanning the hillside, it wasn’t too long before the pale adult Booted Eagle reappeared, a very scarce bird here in the winter. It circled up with the Red Kite, which was bigger than it in size – Booted is a rather small eagle.

A small group of Common Pochard were swimming around at the back of the pool. Several White Storks were on nest platforms in the trees, and when one flew in, we could hear the pair bill clapping. A Kingfisher perched up in the reeds by the channel downstream of the dam, then came and landed much closer, where we could finally get a good view of it in the scope, a Zitting Cisticola was flitting around down in the rushes and a Crested Lark was singing from a small rock nearby. Two Common Waxbills flew in and landed briefly in the reeds close to where we were standing and a Great White Egret flew up and landed on the dam.

As we walked further up the track, up the valley beyond the picnic area, we found a couple of Dunnocks in the trees, plus a Robin, a few tits and several Chaffinches singing. With the air starting to warm in the sunshine, more raptors were starting to circle up. Three Marsh Harriers appeared over the pool and a young male started displaying, twisting and swooping like a roller coaster. The female lower down didn’t seem particularly impressed. Two very distant Black Vultures were over the higher hills beyond.

Then two Bonelli’s Eagles circled up over the trees beyond the pool. One of the Marsh Harriers circled up with them, and started to mob them, swooping down at them from above – we could see how much smaller it was than the eagles. As the Bonelli’s Eagles circled, we could see the white patch on their backs. Eventually they gained height and drifted back over the hillside. We headed back to the minibus for coffee.

Bonelli’s Eagles – these two were mobbed by a Marsh Harrier

After coffee, we decided to move on. As we drove down the minor road towards Campo Lugar, we ran into a traffic jam – a flock of sheep being herded along the road towards us! We had to wait while they were chivvied all round and past us.

Traffic Jam – Extremaduran style!

The other side of village, seven Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew over as we turned onto the road over the plain. A Hoopoe flew along ahead of us, and kept landing on the wall by the road. We stopped at the top of the hill to scan the plains. There were lots of larks, Meadow Pipits and Corn Buntings all around us, but no sign of any bustards.

Our next stop was at the Sierra Brava reservoir. Lots of fishermen were stationed around the shore, despite the ‘no fishing’ signs. There were quite a few ducks way out in the middle – more Shoveler, Wigeon, a pair of Pintail – but less here than at Alcollarin. There were lots of Great Crested Grebes too. We could hear Common Cranes bugling and could see dozens out in the rice fields in the distance below. There were more standing on the grassy hillside beyond the reservoir, with occasional pairs of small groups of birds commuting from one to the other.

It was a beautiful warm day now, with clear air and a great view, so we decided to stop here for lunch. A pair of Sardinian Warblers was flitting around in the bushes below the dam. Several more white butterflies were more obliging here – a couple landed long enough to identify them, Western Dappled Whites.

Sardinian Warbler – a pair were in the bushes below the dam

After lunch, we carried on towards the rice fields. As we drove through a rocky area, we flushed a Marsh Harrier from the ditch beside the road, presumably off a kill. Six Ravens were waiting patiently nearby for any leftovers. There were lots of Cranes on the grassy hillside next to the road here, so we stopped and got out carefully. They were remarkably obliging, and posed nicely for photographs. Then when we got down into the rice fields, there were hundreds and hundreds of more Cranes all around us, feeding in the wet paddies, with some even more accommodating.

Common Cranes – there were hundreds out in the ricefields

Common Crane – stunning views today

As we stopped and got out, a few small groups of wild Greylag Geese flew up out of the fields. A flock of small finches flew past, disappearing round behind a bank where they appeared to land. We walked down the road and looked back to see them bathing in the reeds on the edge of one of the paddies, a group of Red Avadavats. Originally from India, there is now a well-established feral population in Spain. A single Green Sandpiper was feeding further along the edge, in the water amongst the clods of earth.

We were just getting back into the minibus when a ringtail Hen Harrier appeared. Everyone got out again remarkably quickly (and without anyone getting trampled in the rush!) and we watched it working its way low over the weedy banks around the edge of the fields.

Hen Harrier – hunting the margins of the ricefields

At our second attempt, we drove on, stopping again briefly as a Cattle Egret flew past and landed down in the wet paddy close by.

Cattle Egret – the first of many in the rice fields

A few hundred metres further we had another unscheduled stop as one of the group spotted something large and brown move in the tall dead cut rice right next to the road. We couldn’t see it and it was obviously hiding in the vegetation, so we started to get out and that was enough to put it up. A Great Bittern! It flew up and crashed down again a few metres further back, back down into the dead rice stems. After a minute or so, a bill appeared, pointing upwards and through the scope we could see its head and eye, presumably watching us. It turned, and we could see the black stripes down the front of its neck.

Bittern – hiding in the dead cut rice

While we were watching the Bittern, we heard a churring call behind us, from the weeds along the ditch by the road. As we walked down the road towards it, a Dartford Warbler flicked out. We have seen them here before in the winter, presumably coming down out of the hills at this time of year. What a great place to stop!

Further along, we parked again by a track between the rice fields. As we got out, we caught a flash of a red tail as a bird flew from the muddy field margin into the inner edge of the roadside ditch further down, a Bluethroat. We got it in the scope briefly as it came out onto the edge again, a male with a flash of blue, but it immediately disappeared back into the ditch. Despite scanning for a couple of minutes, it didn’t appear again so we tried walking down beside the ditch, but drew a blank.

We thought we would try from the road side,  but as we walked round we flushed another Bluethroat from the ditch on the other side of the road, this time a female. Again, it was elusive, and we followed it down along the bank between two fields and eventually got it in the scope briefly, when it flew across to the far edge. But again, it dropped down into the cut rice before everyone could get a look. Several Common Snipe flew up out of the wet field.

Back at the minibus, what looked like the original Bluethroat was back out on the muddy edge, but when we got it in the scope, it was a female there now. It kept flitting back into the ditch vegetation, but with a bit of patience, everyone eventually got a look as came out onto the open grassy mud. We had already seen several Bluethroats, which was our main target here, but we had a quick walk down the track now anyway. Two more Bluethroats flicked along the ditch ahead of us, along with lots of Chiffchaffs, a couple of Zitting Cisticolas, a Cetti’s Warbler, and another little group of Red Avadavats. Another very productive spot!

With all the diversions, we stayed here later than planned. We wouldn’t have much time there, but we decided to have a quick run round to the south end of the Sierra de Villuercas. On the way, another Black Stork flew across the road and we passed a small group of Red Deer out on an area of open grass between the trees. It was a beautiful view from the pass at the top, but the light had gone from the trees the other side, and all was quiet here.

As we drove back down a bit, several Crag Martins were hawking over the hillside and an Iberian Green Woodpecker dropped down over the road ahead of us and disappeared into the trees on the other side. Previously considered a race of Green Woodpecker, this is now considered to be a full species in its own right. We parked in a small lay-by in the trees, where a Large Tortoiseshell butterfly was fluttering around the information board. A flock of Long-tailed Tits flew over the road. We heard a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker call in the trees, but it wouldn’t show itself, then we heard a Great Spotted Woodpecker a little further along, and could still hear it tapping on a tree somewhere but hidden from view. A Nuthatch was more obliging, perched in the top of a tree. Unfortunately we ran out of time here, and had to head back now to be in time for dinner.

MONDAY 3^RD FEBRUARY

It was a lovely bright start up in the foothills, but we could see mist lingering in the valleys in the distance this morning. We still had not managed to catch up with Little Bustard so we headed over to Santa Marta again, thinking we would be high enough there to be out of the mist. Just as we got out of the trees onto the edge of plains, we drove into thick fog. We waited a few minutes, but it was obviously not going to clear any time soon, so we decided to try something else and when we got over to Belen, the plains were surprisingly clear, with beautiful blue sky and sunshine!

We stopped at the start of the plains to scan, with a couple of Crested Larks, one Thekla Lark and four Woodlarks all visible from our viewpoint. Scanning across we first found a very distant Merlin on a low rock and then a drove of eleven Great Bustards some way off feeding in amongst the cows. As we set off again, we spotted the bustards flying, across the road, before they disappeared away behind us.

As we drove across the plains, we kept stopping and scanning. There was not much of note at first, but when we came over a crest we noticed several vultures out in a field so we stopped for a closer look. As we got out of the minibus, we realised there were three Great Bustards out on the plain the other side. We watched them for a while, as they walked along feeding, before they disappeared over the ridge beyond.

Great Bustard – we had great views of three out on the plains

Turning our attention back to the vultures, we could see three Black Vultures in with about ten Griffons, waiting to warm up before taking to the air, spreading their wings. Scanning back over the other side, we then found a single adult Egyptian Vulture distantly on the grass to complete the set. Being largely white, it stood out in the morning sun, and we could see its bare yellow face in the scope. There were Calandra Larks and Corn Buntings singing all around too.

From the far end of the plains, we drove across to the Torrejon road. On the way, we passed a couple of Great White Egrets on the small pools. Stopping at one pond, the bank at the back was covered in Spanish Terrapins and a Green Sandpiper was on another pool the other side. We were heading for the national park at Monfrague, but we could see cloud hugging the ridge as we drove up past Torrejon. It didn’t look promising and when we got to the turn for the Castillo, we couldn’t even see the castle itself up on the ridge. We decided to go on to the viewpoint at Salto del Gitano for coffee.

Griffon Vulture – showed very well low down at Salto del Gitano

There were several Crag Martins swooping round the rocks as we got out. Loads of Griffon Vultures were circling up over the rock face opposite, up into the clouds. Lots were standing on the rocks too, with several hunkered down on nests already, which we got in the scope. Some were flying round much lower, and one or two came past at eye level or below, giving us a great view. One landed on the rocks just below us, coming in to collect nest material from the bushes. We watched it breaking off branches before launching itself off again with a bill filled with vegetation.

Griffon Vulture – several were on the rocks

Griffon Vulture – some were collecting nest material

When we could take our attention off the great show from the vultures, we noticed a smart male Black Redstart feeding below the trees just below the viewpoint boardwalk.

Black Redstart – a smart male just below the viewpoint

A little further along, another male Black Redstart was singing from the top of a large rocky outcrop, and then a Blue Rock Thrush appeared nearby. A smart blue male, we had a great view in the scope.

Blue Rock Thrush – showed very well on the top of a rocky crag

There were several Blackcaps, Song Thrushes and tits in the trees and we could hear Hawfinches calling here too. They were very hard to see at first, feeding on the wild olives, but eventually they became a little more obliging – a female perched up for ages in the top of a tree close to us, and then we watched two males and another female feeding lower down.

Hawfinch – we had great views of several in the olive trees

The weather looked rather ominously grey the other side of the pass, very different from the sunshine to the south, but we decided to drive on through the national park to the far end. It was actually not too bad, and although it was cloudy and a bit misty, the visibility at ground level was OK. We parked in the lay-by at Portilla del Tietar and took our packed lunches down to the viewpoint.

At first it was rather quiet here. There were a few Long-tailed Tits calling in the trees as we walked down, and we could hear more birds in the trees further along from the viewpoint, including a Short-toed Treecreeper singing but we couldn’t see it. There were lots more Griffon Vultures circling here, up into the cloud, along with two or three Black Vultures, possibly trying unsuccessfully to find thermals. Occasionally a vulture would pass in front of the rocks lower down, and we had a better view of one Black Vulture as it did so.

With all the cloud, we thought we might struggle to see the Spanish Imperial Eagles here today, but we didn’t have to wait too long before one came in high over the rock face. It started to circle with a large group of Griffon Vultures which were gathered slightly further downstream, and we managed to get it in the scope, as it slowly drifted further away with them. It was better than nothing given the weather.

Then someone spotted an Otter in the water below the hide, so everyone gathered to watch that. It would dive for long periods but kept resurfacing, when the ripples gave away its new location.

Otter – in the river at Portilla del Tietar

We were still distracted when we heard an eagle calling over the hillside behind us. We couldn’t see it through the trees as it came in fast, but as it dropped over the water towards the rock face we could see it was a Spanish Imperial Eagle again. It folded its wings back and swooped down, skimming low over the top of the rocks opposite, before swooping up sharply, calling, a great view. It looked almost like it might land, but then a second eagle appeared over the trees beyond, and the two of them circled up together for several minutes, before first one then the other flew off over the hillside.

Spanish Imperial Eagle – the pair put on a great display

We had one last look at the Otter, then had to tear ourselves away. The weather finally looked to be brightening up, and we were starting to see the tops of the ridges back into the park. A Hummingbird Hawkmoth was feeding round the flowers back by the lay-by. As we drove back through the park, we had a quick stop to look at a Red Deer feeding on the short grass by the road.

When we got back to the village, now bathed in sunshine, we had a quick stop to use facilities. We could see the Castillo now, up on the ridge, so we drove up the road and parked at the top. There were one or two Hawfinches calling in the trees and as we walked slowly up the path, a pair of Short-toed Treecreepers appeared in the trees.

Up at the Castillo, there was a fantastic view now that the cloud had cleared. A couple of large kettles of vultures were circling to the north of the ridge, mostly Griffons but with a small number of Black Vultures mixed in with them. Occasionally a Griffon Vulture would come along the ridge, straight past us, at eye level, just overhead, or even below us. Great views.

Griffon Vulture – more great views up at the Castillo, when the sun came out

One of the group up in the top of the tower spotted a group of Cranes coming in, thirteen of them, and we watched as they circled up south of the ridge, calling. A Peregrine appeared in with the vultures over the pass, then folded its wings and swept down behind the rocks. Again, we had to tear ourselves away. It was great that the weather had cleared so we could make it up here, as it would have been a terrible shame to miss out on the experience.

As we still hadn’t seen a Little Bustard, we decided to make our way back and have one last go. As we drove out across the plains, we kept stopping and scanning. We found a small group of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse feeding out on the grass, but no sign of any bustards at first.

Then as we came over a rise, a large flock of Spotless Starlings came up from the short grass by the road ahead of us. Something white took off too – a Little Bustard! We watched from the minibus as it flew across the road and out over the grass the other side, eventually landing on a ridge in the distance. Typically, having not seen another vehicle for ages, a truck came along at that very moment, and we had to pull off the narrow road. By the time we had got out and managed to get the Little Bustard in the scope it was disappearing over the ridge. We walked back up the road, to the top of the rise, but couldn’t see it again.

Fortunately, as we turned to walk back to the bus a flock of thirty Little Bustards flew up and circled round out over the grass, flashing their white wings. They dropped down again, out of view, but from further on along the road, we could see them. We got them in the scope, feeding busily in the grass.

Little Bustards – part of a flock of thirty we found this afternoon

Once we had enjoyed the Little Bustards, we could take in the beauty of our surroundings. It was bright out on the plains in the late afternoon sun. In the clear air, we could see all the way to the snow-capped mountains in the distance. We were surrounded by birdsong, Calandra Larks overhead, and Corn Buntings on the wires. A huge flock of Spotless Starlings was feeding in the grass, constantly whirling up, chattering. Lots of Lapwings were scattered over the fields, and a couple of flocks of Golden Plover were flying round further back. We reflected on how this is what the farmed countryside should be like, full of life. It was a great way to end our last full day.

TUESDAY 4^TH FEBRUARY

After our last breakfast, we checked out of the hotel, said our goodbyes and loaded up the minibus. A Hoopoe was in a tree at the back of the paddock opposite, and we got it in the scope. A couple of Serins were chasing each other round through the trees. We hadn’t had a real chance to look round here in daylight hours before, so we had a short walk down the access road before we left.

There were Blackcaps, Chaffinches, and a Robin or two in trees. There were Sardinian Warblers calling in the bushes, and one flew across the road ahead of us. Several Spotless Starlings and House Sparrows were on the roofs of the houses. A flock of Iberian Magpies was feeding down on the short grass a couple of fields over, so we got those in the scope too. Then when they flew up and over the road past us, we decided to walk back. We could hear Hawfinches calling from the trees.

Iberian Magpie – a flock flew past us as we walked down the road

We could see mist again in the lower lying areas from where we were and as we made our way up the motorway, we went in and out of the fog, which was rather thick at times. We turned off and took the old road up over the hills at Casas de Miravete. We stopped at the top of the pass, above the clouds, where the sun was out. A Woodlark was singing overhead and we stopped to listen to its mournful song.

As we walked up the track on the sunny side of the ridge, a pair of Cirl Buntings flew up and landed on the fence ahead of us. There were quite a few Serins here too and we watched a male song flighting over the path, with fast fluttering wingbeats. A lot of the trees have been cleared up here and the peace was now shattered with the song of chainsaws up in the hillside. We figured we wouldn’t see anything else up here (or be able to hear it!) so we walked back down.

Cirl Bunting – we found a pair at the top of Casas de Miravete

The track on the other side looked quieter, so we decided to try our luck down there. This used to be a good place for Crested Tits, but most of the pines have been taken out (although ironically the non-native eucalyptus the other side of the track have been left in place!). A Black Redstart was flicking around at the start of the track and a Jay called and disappeared off ahead of us through the remaining trees. A couple of Mistle Thrushes flew off up the slope to the rocks above. We thought we heard a snatch of Crested Tit, but when we stopped to listen, we couldn’t hear anything.

We reached a patch which had been completely clear-felled and decided to turn back. This time we definitely heard a Crested Tit call and got a couple of glimpses of it in the pines, along with a pair of Long-tailed Tits. We followed them and eventually the Crested Tit flew up and landed in the top of a pine tree. We could hear a second one calling further back. A Great Spotted Woodpecker was drumming too, higher up.

Back in the minibus, we came out under the cloud on the other side of the ridge. It was rather grey and misty now, as we made our way up to Saucedilla. As we parked at the Visitor Centre again, a couple of Swallows were on the wires above us. As we walked up the track, two Kingfishers chased down over the channel and away through the trees. Two Little Grebes were in the water on the corner. We could hear Western Purple Swamphen calling, but it was hidden deep in the sedge bed. We scanned the channel in front of Hide 1, but couldn’t see anything along the edges of the vegetation either side, and then as we walked back the Purple Swamphen was now standing in the top of a sedge clump. Unfortunately it saw us coming and started to walk back into cover, but we still had a better look at it before it disappeared in completely.

Continuing down along the track, we stopped again to scan the tops of the bulrushes. A bird was perched in some dead branches which protruded from the reeds – a Wryneck. It was presumably trying to avoid the damp vegetation below, as it stayed where it was for several minutes while we had a good look at it in the scope. A nice bonus as they are not common here in winter!

Wryneck – perched up in the dry

A Water Rail called from deep in the vegetation and we could hear the pair of White Storks bill clapping again, on their nest platform behind us. A Green Sandpiper flew round calling and we stopped to look at an Iberian Grey Shrike perched on some wires. Continuing on past Hide 2, there were several Chiffchaffs flycatching in the bushes and a Zitting Cisticola feeding around the base of the low vegetation beside the path, again presumably trying to avoid the thicker, wetter stuff. A small flock of Common Waxbills shot past calling. First a Little Egret and then a Great White Egret appeared up briefly beyond the reeds.

Zitting Cisticola – showed well, feeding in the vegetation by the path

We didn’t have time to go much further, so we turned back. A flock of Spanish Sparrows flew in and landed on a fence by the path. Then a Water Pipit flew up calling from an area of damp grass, circled overhead, and then dropped down towards the fields. When we got back to the channel behind the visitor centre, we looked over to the sedges at the back and could see a Purple Swamphen standing on the water’s edge, out in full view now. It stayed there for several minutes, allowing us all to get a good look at its bright purple plumage, huge red bill and outsize pink feet. Then it walked back into the vegetation. It was a smart bird to end the trip with, and we walked back to the Visitor Centre and ate our packed lunches on the picnic tables.

Western Purple Swamphen – finally showed well as we walked back

The journey back to Madrid was uneventful, although we did see a couple of pairs of Cranes in the dehesa on the way. Our flight back to London Stansted was on time and, even better, our bags were already waiting for us on the carousel when we got through passport control (perhaps they had been taking lessons from the Spanish!), before we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways.